The Perfect Party Dress is made with Float in Green, Flower Crown in Pink, and finished off with a sash in the Breeze print. Don’t you love it when you have the perfect color KAM snaps on hand?
I made the Ruffled Baby Bubble Romper with Float in Blue as the main fabric with Buttercup in Blue straps, and tied it together with big sister’s dress with Breeze ruffles. The wavy print makes the ruffles look extra ruffly!
I know this hot air balloon fabric and the coordinates are going to be super popular, so give a search around the internet (here’s a current search of Etsy listings for Flutter & Float) or your local quilt shop for Flutter & Float soon so you don’t miss out!
How about we show you how to make them, and give you a free downloadable pocket pattern too.
Kitty Pocket Tutorial
First, download the free pocket pattern piece:
TDDkittypocket.pdf (27 downloads)
. Then print at 100% or to your personal preference – the finished pocket printed at 100% is 4.5″ wide and 4″ long.
As directed on the pocket pattern piece, cut two kitty shapes per pocket.
Embellish the kitty face as desired. I’ve included a few sample faces you can trace. Below shows the faces done with heat-transfer vinyl, sewing-machine stitches (tight zigzag for lines and the built-in eyelet stitch for eyes), and, my favorite, hand embroidery. You can use tiny buttons for eyes and nose if they safe for the age of the wearer.
Use a 1/4″ seam allowance to sew two pockets right sides together. Leave about an inch unstitched on one side for turning. You may find it helpful to mark the stitching line so you can sew precisely around the ears and top of the head.
Before turning, clip into the inner corners where the ears join the head and across the points of the ears. Also, clip around the curve or trim with pinking shears. Do not trim or clip the area left open for turning.
Now turn your kitty through the opening. Use a small tool (knitting needles, chopsticks, small screwdriver) to push out the curves and ears. Press well turning under the 1/4″ seam allowance at the turning point.
Topstitch around the entire kitty a scant1/4″ from the edge. Again, it may be helpful to mark your stitching line. Then, edgestitch (1/8″ from the edge or less) across the top of the head from the outer point of one ear to the outer point of the other. Remember, start 1/8″ in from the edge and end 1/8″ in from the edge.
Pin pocket(s) in place on your garment and edgestitch around the bottom of the head to secure the pocket to the garment, connecting your stitches to the ones you sewed on the top portion.
Finally, sew a bartack or tight zigzag across the tops of the ears to reinforce the pocket.
Solids or ‘blenders’ work best for the kitty face; you want to avoid fabrics with a bold or busy print. We’ve shown this tutorial to you in fabrics from the Tutti Fruitti and Panda-Rama collections by Maude Asbury for Blend Fabrics with the exception of the hand-embroidered sample shown on a solid linen.
The moment I saw the pink colorway of the Panda-rama collection by Maude Asbury for Blend Fabrics, I knew the Garnet Dress, Skirt and Top pattern for Girls would be perfect to showcase these playful prints. The pattern is available in sizes 12 months – 10 years and includes the dress pattern with knit bodice and woven or knit skirt, long or short sleeves, and a sweet woven collar, as well as views for making a knit top and a circle skirt that can be sewn using woven or knit fabric. The skirt on the dress or separate skirt can be made with either a single fabric print or with fabric panels and features a knit waistband. Of course I was going to use those panels to feature Panda-Rama’s adorable pandas, lanterns, and geometric prints!
The top is made with cotton/lycra knit fabric, and I used the Pink Pin Tip tutorial in the Garnet pattern for the ruched long sleeves. I love ruching as it adds a bit of fanciness to an otherwise simple top. I also appliqued that sweet little panda face because, well, pandas!
Making a fabric bead necklace (and bracelet) is such a fun way to showcase the tonal geometric prints. The wooden beads also add a fun bit of color and break up the pattern.
You can also make a fabric bead necklace without visible beads, like we did here with the hanging lanterns print. Instead of using more beads for contrast, we simply used knots. The ring is sewn on using a zipper foot.
To make these fabric bead necklaces and bracelets, you will need fabric and larger sized beads. We used three different sizes. If you would like to make the fabric bead necklace with the gold ring, you would also need one of those. I was able to find the beads and the ring in the macrame section of my local craft shop. The wooden beads are also non-toxic, and although we left them natural, you can always paint them to match the fabric too if that’s your thing.
My girl took the reins on this project and made most of them herself, so if you can you should definitely make these with your kiddos too! We used a few simple techniques to make these fabric bead necklaces and bracelets. We kept it simple because they’re kids’ jewelry, but you can definitely add clasps and closures to make them more “grown up”.
Now let’s make some fabric bead necklaces and bracelets!
First, you will need to cut strips of fabric to fit the largest bead you will be putting inside of your fabric bead necklace. Here is your cutting guide:
16mm beads – cut your fabric 2 3/8″ wide by about 16″ long (length for bracelet)
20mm beads – cut your fabric 2 7/8″ wide by 45″ long (length for necklace)
25mm beads – cut your fabric 3 1/2″ wide by 45″ long
Lay your fabric strip right side up, then fold it in half lengthwise with right sides together, and sew along the long edge using a 1/4″ seam allowance, stopping about 1″ from the end.
Turn your tube right side out using a safety pin or bodkin.
Taking the end opposite of the one with the 1″ opening, tie a knot leaving a tail. For the bracelet leave only a few inches for the tail, but for the necklace, leave several inches depending on the design you’re working on.
Begin with your first bead, pushing it all the way inside to the knot you just tied. If the bead won’t fit in your tube easily, you’ll need to cut a wider strip.
If you want contrasting beads on the outside, pinch your fabric at the end to push inside the bead, twisting and using needle nose pliers if necessary to pull it through.
Alternate this way until you get your desired length.
When you finish with your final bead, tie another knot at the end closely to your last bead.
Here we tied both ends and simply cut the tails off. You could also fold the ends in and hand or machine sew them closed.
These are so fun and easy to make, and they complete this Garnet skirt and top ensemble. Look at how that paneled circle-skirt twirl just shows off these prints! The pattern recommends 5 different prints for the skirt panels, but I was able to use just 4 (1 extra panel each of the panda and lantern prints), and it still looks great.
It looks great little too! Aren’t these the sweetest little panda faces on this Ruffled Baby Sunsuit/Romper? Check out those charming little birdies in the background with their rosy cheeks.
Panda-rama is arriving in fabric shops now (I see it in Fat Quarter Shop now) and is available in two colorways, including this blue you see above.
The New York Minute Dress is not just a dress pattern, but did you know it also includes a bonus tutorial to make a pullover top? Today we’re going to share with you how to take it a step further and add a sweet little drop waist peplum top pattern.
Peplums are such a great way to dress up a casual fleece top, and with this one, you can still add several of the other options that already come with the pattern, like the kangaroo pocket, hood, ribbing, or whatever you choose!
Make sure you have a copy of the New York Minute Dress pattern! This pattern is designed to be a quick sew using those fun fleece fabrics we love to stock up on. If you don’t have fleece, don’t fear, there are several other fabric recommendations like french terry, interlock, velour, and some have even sewn it up using cotton lycra! It’s also available in sizes 12 months to 9/10 years.
Let’s go ahead and jump right in shall we?!
Choose a Size
After printing and assembling your pattern, you will want to wait before making any size changes. Make sure to select the size based on your child’s chest measurement. If your child is in between sizes, the pattern recommends sizing down for the dress, but if you want to layer this top version, go ahead and size up. Also note your child’s height size, but save that for later.
My daughter’s chest measurement is 21.5″, so she falls smack dab in size 3, and I’m going with that. Her height is 43″ and puts her in size 5 for length.
Creating the Top
To determine the drop waist length for the top, measure from your child’s underarm to their upper hip, or wherever you would like the peplum to start. If you don’t have access to that measurement, go ahead and use the chart below (the chart’s measurements include seam allowance). I recommend using your child’s height measurement for your cut length.
My daughter measures 8″, and I’m adding 3/8″ for seam allowance, so my total length measurement is 8 3/8″.
Taking your NYM front and back pattern pieces and a ruler, draw a straight line from the underarm seam straight down the number of inches you just measured, then draw a line straight across to the center fold line. If you’re using the cut chart, remember to use the chest size for the underarm seam, and the height size for the cut length.
I drew an 8 3/8″ line straight down from the underarm seam for both my front and back pattern pieces.
To figure out the size of your peplum piece we’ll need to do a little simple math so grab a calculator. Don’t worry, we’ll break it down into little bite sized steps! You can also use the charts below if you would prefer to (chart measurements include seam and hem allowance).
Step 1: Measure the width of your waist pattern piece and multiply it by 4.
My waist piece is 6.25″ wide, so I multiplied that by 4 and now have 25.
Step 2: For heavier fleece and knits, or for less gathers, multiply your number in step 1 by 1.25. For lighter knit fabric, or for more gathers, multiply your number in step 1 by 1.5.
I’m making both versions to show as an example in the same fabric, you would only choose one. These are my peplum width calculations.
Step 3: Now take that final number and add 3/4″ for seam allowance (3/8″ for each side).
For the length of the peplum piece, I used the chart on NYM pattern page 14 to derive these measurements. If you would like it longer or shorter, just add or subtract from the number under your size.
My daughter is a size 5 for height, so using 5″ for length, these are my final peplum measurements LxW:
Also make any changes to the length of your sleeve’s pattern piece at this point and choose your neckline option. If you want to include the kangaroo pocket, follow the instructions on page 14 of the pattern.
To help you choose…
This version has less gathers. The peplum is basically eased into the top.
This version has more gathers and plenty of poof.
Here is the hoodie version with more gathers and a kangaroo pocket.
That’s a lot of preparation, or at least it looks that way, but it goes quickly right?
Sewing the Peplum
Well now let’s get sewing! We’ll start on Step 2 of the pattern, with the sleeves. Continue with each step, omitting the pocket steps, until you reach Step 6.
You should have your top done except for the bottom. Taking your peplum piece, fold it in half right sides together, and sew the short ends using a 3/8″ seam allowance.
Now follow the hemming instructions in step 6a of your pattern to hem your peplum piece.
Next, sew two rows of gathering stitches at the top of your peplum piece using your favorite gathering method, but don’t gather yet.
Turn your peplum piece so the wrong side is facing out and mark center and sides with pins.
Place your top right side out, inside of the peplum piece. Pin peplum to top matching the center back of your top with the seam of your peplum. Pin the center front and sides of your pieces.
Gather until your peplum and top openings match and sew together using a 3/8″ seam allowance.
Carefully press your seam towards the top, remove any visible gathering stitches, and topstitch to help it lay flat. If you’re adding a pocket you would also do that now.
A little sneak peak at this adorable free kitty face pocket tutorial that’s in the works. Some hand stitching and a heart-shaped stud for the nose, and I LOVE the way it turned out!
Now you have a dropwaist peplum top! It’s fashionable and cozy!
Welcome to Tie Dye Diva’s stop on the Enchanted collection blog tour sponsored by Riley Blake Designs! We are super thankful to Dodi Poulsen of Two Sisters at Squirrel Hollow for again asking us to sew up one of her new collections – her designs are always perfect for children’s clothing and versatile for so many other projects too.
We chose to feature the Enchanted Plaid in Pink – because, you guys, PLAID! And PINK! Best of all, it’s printed on the bias so you get that fabulous diamond pattern without having to cut and work with bias-cut fabric. We chose the pretty Enchanted Main in Mint for the reverse of our Perfect A-Line dress and Knot or Not Headband. As coordinates, we’re using the collection’s sweet little dots in Mint and Pink. You can see the rest of the Enchanted collection here. These fabrics were provided to us free of charge so we could bring you this post and free tutorial, but all opinions are our own. Be sure to read all the way to the bottom to find out how to enter to win a bundle of Enchanted of your very own!
Our Perfect A-Line Dress pattern is one of my go-tos when a I want a special fabric to take center stage on a smooth surface, unbroken by seams or gathers. As soon as I saw the gorgeous pink plaid, I knew I wanted to use this pattern, along with our Knot or Not Headband pattern. The result is so cute and classic!
An A-line dress is a great canvas for embellishments like applique or pockets, and we created some sweet and simple little foldover patch pockets we want to share with you today.
How to Sew A Foldover Patch Pocket
You’ll need only scraps of two coordinating fabric for the foldover patch pockets (one for the main side and one for the reverse, which will show as the folded-over top portion), a snap or button, a little fusible or sew-in interfacing, and our downloadable foldover patch pocket pattern piece here:
TDDfoldoverpocket.pdf (59 downloads)
For each pocket you want to make, cut 1 pocket from each of your two fabrics, and 2 pieces of interfacing. Mark the large black dots on the right sides of the fabric pieces and mark the button/snap placement on the right side of the reverse fabric.
Next, apply interfacing to the flap portion of both the main and reverse pocket pieces – this will be the top of the pocket above the fold line, inside the 1/4″ seam allowance. Then with right sides together, sew the two pocket pieces together using a 1/4″ seam allowance and leaving about 1″-1.5″ open on a straight side for turning. (I sewed first and interfaced after, which is why you don’t see interfacing in my sewing-step photo.)
Clip the curves, or be lazy like me and using pinking shears, but leave the seam allowance remaining outside of the turning gap. Turn and press, rolling the seam to the exact edges and turning in the seam allowance at the gap. Stitch all the way around, a scant 1/4″ from the edge.
Be sure the large black dots are marked on your pocket piece. Pin the pocket in place on your garment and edgestitch (1/8″ from the edge) around the bottom only of the pocket, from black dot to black dot.
Bar tack or narrow zigzag between the topstitching lines at the black dots on both sides. I used a 3 height, 0.3 width zigzag.
Fold and press the flap along the fold line. Last, sew a button or press a snap through the flap and the pocket, but not through the garment fabric.
How simple was that? Enjoy your foldover patch pockets!
How sweet would this dress be at a special Valentines’ Day event or Easter brunch? When it comes to sweet, romantic florals, Anna Griffin fabrics never disappoint! I was so excited to cut into my stack of this collection, I forgot to take a picture of all the prints together. Good thing my fellow Blend blogger Sew Can She is better organized and let me use her photo, below! Sew Can She also has a super cute free tutorial for a tote bag with many pockets that she made from the Charlotte collection, so head over there and check it out.
Ask your local quilt shop to carry Anna Griffin fabrics (if they don’t already) or take a look on etsy – I found the shop Sew Stitching Happy carrying many of the fabrics from the Charlotte collection.
I love sewing reversible dresses and other reversible garments! You get two looks for the ‘price’ of one, plus a tidy, all-seams-enclosed finish that means no hemming and no seam finishing. Our popular Perfect A-Line Dress pattern is a great example of a fully reversible dress that I love to sew. If you love reversible, you can sew right from our pattern and make the dress that you want!
But sometimes, you might want to make an unlined a-line dress instead. You might be short on fabric, live in a hot climate, or want to embellish the outer side with dimensional embellishments that would be too bulky to wear on the inside of the dress (like our fun Perfect A Line Dress with Tuxedo Ruffle tutorial!). When you want an unlined a-line dress, it’s really simple to make it from this reversible pattern and today we’ll show you how.
First, you’ll draft an ‘all in one’ facing that will line and finish the edges of the straps, neckline, and armholes. Don’t worry – it’s easy!
After cutting your front and back fabric from the Perfect A-Line Dress pattern pieces (remember, only one of each because this dress will not be reversible!), lay your pattern front and back out in your workspace. On the pattern front, measure down 2.5″ from the neckline and draw a little mark perpendicular to the “fold” line.
Measure 2″ down from the underarm and draw another little mark. Join these marks with a gently curving line. Don’t make the curve too steep, as it will be easier to hem/finish with a gentle slope.
On the pattern back, measure 2″ down from the underarm and mark this point on the side line, then square this line across to the ‘fold’ line.
Cut these new facing pattern pieces on the lines you drew.
2. Sew the Facing in the Unlined A-Line Dress
Use your new pattern pieces to cut 1 on fold of each front and back from your facing fabric, which can be same-fabric, a contrasting fabric, or any woven fabric of a similar weight. With right sides together, sew the facings together along their side edges and press the seams open. You don’t need to finish these seams.
Finish the bottom edge of the facings by serging/zigzagging, or by hemming. Serging or zigzagging is easier.
To hem the facings, sew a line of stitching around the bottom edge a scant 1/4″ from the edge, then use this stitching line to press the raw edge to the wrong side, then use this fold to help you fold a second time, and stitch close to the fold. I had some little puckers in the hem around the curve that only showed on the wrong side.
It’s a good idea to interface the snap/buttonhole areas on the facing, so do that now, using the marks given on the pattern.
Then, you’ll need to change the order of construction on your dress. Place the dress front and dress back with right sides together and sew along both side seams. Finish the seams and press them open or to the back.
With the dress right side out and the facing wrong side out, place the facing around the dress, matching raw edges of the straps, armholes, and necklines, and pinning all around. Stitch the entire top edge 1/2″ from the edge. Clip and notch seam allowances as appropriate.
Turn the facing to the inside, using a long thin turning tool like a chopstick to press the seam line to the very edge between the fabrics. Press well and topstitch the seam.
From the right side of the dress, “stitch in the ditch” of the side seams to hold the facing in place. Add your snaps or buttons/buttonholes.
3. Hem the Dress
Hem the dress by pressing under 1/4″, then pressing under 1/4″ again and sewing close to the fold. OR, use last week’s hem facing tutorial to finish the dress with a hem facing.
Sewing a hem facing is an alternative to turning a hem on a garment. It adds a special touch and is useful for lengthening an existing dress or top, or when you are sewing a garment and have alllllmost enough fabric but are a little short. It also makes hemming A-line tops and dresses simple – no easing stitches needed! Here’s how to sew a hem facing.
The Perfect A Line dress is a reversible dress pattern when made by the instructions, but we’ve made it unlined with an all-in-one facing at the straps and armholes and a hem facing at the bottom.
The Perfect A Line Dress Pattern comes in 0-24 months and 2-6 years
We’ll show you how to do the all-in-one facing and make this dress unlined in another blog post next week. You won’t be able to use the hem facing technique with the Perfect A Line until we have both parts of the tutorial up but it’s good to read through it now so you understand how to sew a hem facing, and you can use it with your other unlined garment patterns – even those with a simple gathered skirt from rectangular cuts!
Because the Perfect A Line Dress pattern is drafted to be reversible, it has just 1/2″ seam allowance along the bottom hem. So, when we are not making the dress reversible, we have only 1/2″ to use as a hem allowance. You could press up a narrow 1/4″ hem, but I prefer a deeper hem, so am going to create a hem facing.
How to Sew A Hem Facing
First, make a pattern piece for your hem facing by using the dress front or back pattern piece – the hems on the two are the same on the Perfect A Line and many other patterns – when in doubt, trace off separate facings from the front and back and remember to label them. I measured 2.5″ up from the hem all along the bottom in order to have a 1.5″ finished hem – you can make this wider or narrower as you wish. Draw a line parallel to the original hemline.
Then cut along this line to make your new hem facing pattern piece. Be sure to mark your “fold” edge as soon as you create the pattern piece, as it’s easy to get this piece turned around the wrong way. Then make Tie Dye Diva proud and label your pattern piece as Hem Facing, Cut 2 on Fold.
Next – you guessed it, use the pattern piece to cut 2 facings on the fold. You can use same fabric, a contrasting fabric, or any woven fabric of a similar weight.
With right sides together, sew the facings together along their short edges and press the seams open.
Press the top (smaller) edge of this facing “loop” under 1/2″ to the wrong side.
With right sides together, place the facing around the dress, aligning the raw bottom edges. Sew around using a 1/2″ seam allowance.
Press the facing away from the dress, then turn the dress to the wrong side and press the facing against the wrong side of the dress. Pin it well so you don’t have bubbles! Then stitch the facing into place by either stitching around 1/8″ from the folded edge, or using a blind hem stitch if you prefer. Depending on your fabric weight and garment type, you may need to trim and/or clip the seam allowances before turning to avoid too much bulk or a wonky hem. (For the Perfect A-Line, I did not do either.)
Now you know how to sew a hem facing! It’s useful for lengthening garments, because you can let down an existing hem and use as little as 1/4″ of the original garment length to sew in a deep hem facing. So for example, if you have an existing dress that is hemmed by pressing under 1/2″, and then 1″, you can let out that hem, sew a facing on using a 1/4″ seam allowance, and lengthen your dress by 1-1/4″! It’s also useful if you are a little short on fabric when you are sewing a new garment. And, a hem facing allows you to sew a deep hem on an A-line shape without having to ease in the hem stitching.
Come back to the Tie Dye Diva blog next week to see how to make this reversible dress pattern completely unlined by drafting and sewing a quick all-in-one facing for the bodice. Plus, we’ve got an adorable cutie wearing this Tutti Fruitti A-line dress that you won’t want to miss.
We’ve got a brand new pattern over at Tie Dye Diva Patterns today – the New York Minute Dress pattern, a dress pattern for fleece and other stable knits. You know all that fleece you got for an amazing price on Black Friday? You don’t need another new-sew blanket. Now you have something more awesome to do with it – and it will only take you a New York minute with our quick-sew pattern.
New York Minute dress pattern for fleece includes long sleeves, short sleeves, kangaroo pocket, inseam pocket, hooded, wide faced neckline and ribbing neckline options. You can finish the hem with a simple turned finish or use ribbing for a banded bubble look. Use the bonus tutorial to make a unisex top! Nine sizes from 12 months to 10 years. Enough options to keep you moving through that stack of fleece and crossing to-dos off your gift list with time left to catch up on Gilmore Girls.
We love New York Minute Dress sewn up in anti-pill fleece (polar fleece). It’s warm, has a slight furry nap that makes your kids look like huggable little teddy bears, and it holds up well in the wash.
Here are New York Minutes some of our testers made with fleece!
Here are some New York Minute Dresses some of our testers made with other fabrics suitable for the pattern:
You can catch NYM dress pattern at a special low price through Tuesday, 12/13. Enjoy!