One of the most satisfying aspects of sewing is mashing patterns together to create something new. This is especially true when I love certain aspects of the patterns and wish they existed together, but then I make it happen, which is even better! I have to give design credit for today’s pattern mashup to my girl though because this one is her idea…totally proud mama moment!
She loves skirt-alls, so when she saw another little girl wearing some at the park, she said they reminded her of something I had made before. When we got home, she showed me her sister’s Storybook Pinafore short dress, and she commented that it would look great attached to her Potato Chip Skirt. Right then I knew I had to make this awesome mashup happen!
The Storybook Pinafore Dress is an adorable vintage inspired pinafore pattern available in baby sizes (0 – 24 months), girls sizes (2-10 years), or as a bundle to save. The Potato Chip Skirt is a wardrobe staple reversible skirt with optional pockets, available in sizes 12 months to 13/14 years. Since we are mashing these two patterns together, our mashup will includes sizes 12-18 months to 9/10 years. If you don’t already have them, make sure to grab both patterns to complete today’s mashup.
You can make this skirt-all mashup with ruffles or without, add trim or piping as you like, although we left ours pretty simple. The blue version without ruffles is made with a chambray.
This ruffles version is made with Kaufman Brussels Washer Linen in grey.
Both are simple to pull on, so big girls can help get themselves dressed in the mornings. This means there are no closures in this mashup, just a quick and fun sew! Let’s get started!
Preparing Your Pattern Pieces
Since we’re mashing these two patterns together, we will only be using a couple of pieces from each pattern. We will need to alter some as well, but it’s pretty simple and sews up quickly.
Let’s begin with the Storybook Pinafore pattern. You will need these pattern pieces:
- Straps (cut 4)
- Bodice (cut 2)
- Ruffle (optional – cut 2)
Before cutting out your pinafore pattern pieces, you will need to alter the bodice and strap pieces. To calculate the length to add to your pieces, follow these simple steps:
Measure your strap pattern’s long side (shown in red below).
Multiply your measurement by .35, then divide the amount you get in half. That is the amount you will need to add to each short end of your strap and bodice pattern pieces (shown in purple below). We add this amount to each end so that our center point on the pattern is still accurate.
For example, my strap piece for size 4/5 years measures 16.25” on the long side, so I multiplied 16.25” x .35 = 5.688, and rounded up to 5.75” to make it easier on myself. My total length increase is 5.75”, so I divided this amount in half, 5.75/2 = 2.875 or 2 7/8″. I added 2.875″ to each short end of my straps and bodice pieces as shown below.
If you are using the ruffle piece, we will modify the length to be 2x the length of the new strap. I simply put my ruffle piece on top of my newly lengthened strap piece, then extended and redrew the ruffle curve to match the length of my strap. You will cut two ruffle pieces on the fold of your fabric.
From the Potato Chip Skirt pattern you will need these pattern pieces:
- Main Fabric Skirt Front (cut 1)
- Skirt Back (cut 1)
- Pocket Backing (optional – cut 2)
- Pocket Liners (optional – cut 2)
We won’t be altering any of these pattern pieces, but it will sit a bit higher on the waist when we’re done assembling everything. You may want to add length to the skirt, an inch or so, using the lengthening instructions on page 15 of your Potato Chip Skirt pattern. I didn’t add any length to my pattern, but I did use a narrow hem to finish my skirt.
Now for the waistband pieces, use the cutting chart below. Find your Potato Chip Skirt hip size, and cut the following waistband and elastic pieces:
Remember to place a mark at the center front and center back of your waistband pieces.
Sewing and Assembling Your Pinafore and Skirt
Now that you have your pattern pieces ready, go ahead and cut out your fabric. Don’t forget to mark your center notches for those pieces that need it. Once you have your fabric cut, you’re ready to sew!
Sewing the Pinafore Bodice, Skirt, and Waistband
First, assemble your pinafore bodice according to the Storybook Pinafore pattern (step 4). If you are adding the ruffles, you will need to prepare them (step 1) and attach them to the bodice (step 5). When you are done, it should look like this.
We will be making the unlined skirt version for this tutorial. If you are adding the pockets, begin with step 1 of the Potato Chip Skirt pattern. You can also find a wonderful piping tutorial on page 6 to add a little contrast to your pockets! If you’re not adding pockets, begin with step 2. Proceed through to step 3 then stop. You will have an assembled skirt that looks like this.
Now we’re going to move on to our waistband. You should have two front and two back pieces. Following step “e” on the bottom of page 5 of your Potato Chip Skirt pattern, also apply the interfacing to the wrong side of your front waistband.
Taking one front and one back waistband piece, place them right sides together and sew along the short ends with a ½” seam allowance (fabric looks different because I made a few of them!).
Now press these seams open. Repeat this with the other front and back waistband pieces.
Assembling Your Pinafore and Skirt
Now we’re going to put everything together!
First we will attach our pinafore to the waistband pieces. Place your waistband main and lining pieces right sides together, pinning at the side seams. Now sandwich your front pinafore bodice into the front waistbands, matching right sides and center front notches.
It will look layered like this. Your pinafore bodice’s raw edge is lined up with the raw edge of the waistband.
Repeat this with the back pinafore bodice piece, matching center back notches. Continue pinning around entire bottom of waistband to hold together in place. Sew around this entire seam with a ½” seam allowance, then trim the seam allowance to a 1/4″.
Pull the waistband down with wrong sides together and press well. Top stitch close to the seam using no more than 1/8″ seam allowance. We will refer to this entire pinafore bodice/waistband piece as just the bodice in the rest of the tutorial for simplicity.
Now we’re ready to move on to our skirt portion. We’re almost done!
First, turn your skirt inside out. With your bodice right side out, slide it down into your skirt aligning raw edges, matching center front, center back, and side seams. Pin well so nothing moves around.
Make sure the waistband’s lining is pushed down and out of the way. Sew around the waist seam with a ½” seam allowance.
Now pull up your waistband and lining, press the seam you just finished up towards the waistband, and press your the raw edge under towards the wrong side 3/8”.
Pull your bodice out of the skirt and turn everything right side out. Reach inside to turn your waistband lining down, and from the right side pin your back waistband lining down to form the elastic casing. Stitch close to the bottom edge of the back waistband only, from side seam to side seam. I like to sew this from the right side to keep my seams nice and straight, making sure I catch my waistband lining in the seam.
Looking at the inside of the skirt, pull your elastic through the opening at the sides until ½” of elastic sticks out and secure by stitching in the side seam ditch. Pull the other side all the through and stitch in the same manner to secure your elastic.
Optionally you can add an additional row of stitching in the center of the back waistband after securing your elastic. I do this by stretching my waistband and elastic as I sew, and I use a slightly longer stitch length.
Now pin and top stitch the front waistband down, catching the front waistband lining.
Yay! You’re done!
This is such a great piece to layer with long sleeves, tights and boots for cooler weather, or with a tank and sandals for warmer weather. Including the back bodice, seen in the pictures below, helps make this skirt-all easy to pull over, but I think this would look pretty cute with the blog tutorial for vintage inspired cross back straps too.
We hope you enjoyed this pattern mashup as much as we have! You can find the patterns mentioned in this post in Tie Dye Diva’s Pattern Shop, and don’t forget to share your makes with us! We love seeing them, so if you haven’t joined our Facebook group yet, you can find us at Tie Dye Diva Sewing Patterns.