Featured Patterns | free tutorial | Knot or Not Headband | Perfect A Line | Pocket Tutorials | Tutorials

Foldover Patch Pocket Tutorial – Riley Blake Enchanted Blog Tour

Welcome to Tie Dye Diva’s stop on the Enchanted collection blog tour sponsored by Riley Blake Designs! We are super thankful to Dodi Poulsen of Two Sisters at Squirrel Hollow for again asking us to sew up one of her new collections – her designs are always perfect for children’s clothing and versatile for so many other projects too.

We chose to feature the Enchanted Plaid in Pink – because, you guys, PLAID! And PINK! Best of all, it’s printed on the bias so you get that fabulous diamond pattern without having to cut and work with bias-cut fabric. We chose the pretty Enchanted Main in Mint for the reverse of our Perfect A-Line dress for Baby and Knot or Not Headband. As coordinates, we’re using the collection’s sweet little dots in Mint and Pink. You can see the rest of the Enchanted collection here. These fabrics were provided to us free of charge so we could bring you this post and free tutorial, but all opinions are our own. Be sure to read all the way to the bottom to find out how to enter to win a bundle of Enchanted of your very own!

Our Perfect A-Line Dress pattern for Baby (also available as Perfect A Line Dress Pattern for Girls 2 to 6) is one of my go-tos when a I want a special fabric to take center stage on a smooth surface, unbroken by seams or gathers. As soon as I saw the gorgeous pink plaid, I knew I wanted to use this pattern, along with our Knot or Not Headband pattern. The result is so cute and classic!

An A-line dress is a great canvas for embellishments like applique or pockets, and we created some sweet and simple little foldover patch pockets we want to share with you today.

How to Sew A Foldover Patch Pocket

You’ll need only scraps of two coordinating fabric for the foldover patch pockets (one for the main side and one for the reverse, which will show as the folded-over top portion), a snap or button, a little fusible or sew-in interfacing, and our downloadable foldover patch pocket pattern piece here: TDDfoldoverpocket.pdf (131 downloads)

For each pocket you want to make, cut 1 pocket from each of your two fabrics, and 2 pieces of interfacing. Mark the large black dots on the right sides of the fabric pieces and mark the button/snap placement on the right side of the reverse fabric.

Next, apply interfacing to the flap portion of both the main and reverse pocket pieces – this will be the top of the pocket above the fold line, inside the 1/4″ seam allowance. Then with right sides together, sew the two pocket pieces together using a 1/4″ seam allowance and leaving about 1″-1.5″ open on a straight side for turning. (I sewed first and interfaced after, which is why you don’t see interfacing in my sewing-step photo.)

Clip the curves, or be lazy like me and using pinking shears, but leave the seam allowance remaining outside of the turning gap. Turn and press, rolling the seam to the exact edges and turning in the seam allowance at the gap. Stitch all the way around, a scant 1/4″ from the edge.

Be sure the large black dots are marked on your pocket piece. Pin the pocket in place on your garment and edgestitch (1/8″ from the edge) around the bottom only of the pocket, from black dot to black dot.

Bar tack or narrow zigzag between the topstitching lines at the black dots on both sides. I used a 3 height, 0.3 width zigzag.

Fold and press the flap along the fold line. Last, sew a button or press a snap through the flap and the pocket, but not through the garment fabric.

How simple was that? Enjoy your foldover patch pockets!

Thank you to Willow Jane and Kristi Marie Photography for the modeled photos!

 

Blog Tour Schedule

Monday, Jan 23rd – Little Londyn

Tuesday, Jan 24th – Jedi Craft Girl

Wednesday, Jan 25th – Loose Threads

Thursday, Jan 26th – Meags and Me

Friday, Jan 27th – Pretty by Hand

Monday, Jan 30th – Tie Dye Diva

Tuesday, Jan 31st – Two Sisters as Squirrel Hallow

Wednesday, Feb 1st – Striped Swallow Designs

Thursday, Feb 2nd – Izzy and Ivy

Friday, Feb 3rd – Ellis and Higgs

Monday, Feb 6th – Aurifil

Tuesday, Feb 7th – The Crafy Quilter

Wednesday, Feb 8th – Two Sisters at Squirrel Hallow

Thursday, Feb 9th – Jina Barney Designz

Friday, Feb 10th – Riley Blake

You could win a bundle of Enchanted fabric by visiting Dodi’s blog, Loose Threads (www.sashgals.com) and leaving a comment.

One entry per blog post, per day of the Blog Tour, there on Loose Threads.

Enter every day to increase your chance of winning!

Featured Patterns | Seaside Sailor Dress

Sweet Collared Dress for Baby featuring Anna Griffin Charlotte

Just a quick post today to share adorable Miss Willow Jane in our modified Sailor Dress for Baby pattern made with Anna Griffin Fabrics’ Charlotte collection!

How sweet would this dress be at a special Valentines’ Day event or Easter brunch? When it comes to sweet, romantic florals, Anna Griffin fabrics never disappoint! I was so excited to cut into my stack of this collection, I forgot to take a picture of all the prints together. Good thing my fellow Blend blogger Sew Can She is better organized and let me use her photo, below! Sew Can She also has a super cute free tutorial for a tote bag with many pockets that she made from the Charlotte collection, so head over there and check it out.

Ask your local quilt shop to carry Anna Griffin fabrics (if they don’t already) or take a look on etsy – I found the shop Sew Stitching Happy carrying many of the fabrics from the Charlotte collection.

You can find our  Sweet Sailor Dress for Baby pattern on our website, and the rounded collar modification takes only a minute and is detailed on our blog here.

Baby Sailor Dress with original collar (made with True Blue collection by Ana Davis for Blend Fabrics)
Baby Sailor Dress with modified collar (made with Anna Griffin’ Charlotte collection)

Enjoy!

Dress and Top Patterns | Featured Patterns | Perfect A Line | TDD Pattern Add Ons | Tutorials

How to Make an Unlined Perfect A-Line Dress

I love sewing reversible dresses and other reversible garments! You get two looks for the ‘price’ of one, plus a tidy, all-seams-enclosed finish that means no hemming and no seam finishing. Our popular Perfect A-Line Dress pattern for Girls and Perfect A-Line Dress pattern for Baby are great examples of a fully reversible dress that I love to sew. If you love reversible, you can sew right from our pattern and make the dress that you want!

But sometimes, you might want to make an unlined a-line dress instead. You might be short on fabric, live in a hot climate, or want to embellish the outer side with dimensional embellishments that would be too bulky to wear on the inside of the dress (like our fun Perfect A Line Dress with Tuxedo Ruffle tutorial!). When you want an unlined a-line dress, it’s really simple to make it from this reversible pattern and today we’ll show you how.

We’re again using the adorable upcoming Tutti Fruitti collection by Maude Asbury for Blend Fabrics. You’ll be able to find it at Hawthorne Threads when it arrives any day now. It’s so perfect for a sweet little baby dress, isn’t it? The fabric has been provided to use free of charge so we can bring you great tutorials like this one.

Making an Unlined A-Line Dress

1. Draft the All-In-One Facing

First, you’ll draft an ‘all in one’ facing that will line and finish the edges of the straps, neckline, and armholes. Don’t worry – it’s easy!

After cutting your front and back fabric from the Perfect A-Line Dress pattern pieces (remember, only one of each because this dress will not be reversible!), lay your pattern front and back out in your workspace. On the pattern front, measure down 2.5″ from the neckline and draw a little mark perpendicular to the “fold” line.

Measure 2″ down from the underarm and draw another little mark. Join these marks with a gently curving line. Don’t make the curve too steep, as it will be easier to hem/finish with a gentle slope.

On the pattern back, measure 2″ down from the underarm and mark this point on the side line, then square this line across to the ‘fold’ line.

Cut these new facing pattern pieces on the lines you drew.

2. Sew the Facing in the Unlined A-Line Dress

Use your new pattern pieces to cut 1 on fold of each front and back from your facing fabric, which can be same-fabric, a contrasting fabric, or any woven fabric of a similar weight. With right sides together, sew the facings together along their side edges and press the seams open. You don’t need to finish these seams.

Finish the bottom edge of the facings by serging/zigzagging, or by hemming. Serging or zigzagging is easier.

To hem the facings, sew a line of stitching around the bottom edge a scant 1/4″ from the edge, then use this stitching line to press the raw edge to the wrong side, then use this fold to help you fold a second time, and stitch close to the fold. I had some little puckers in the hem around the curve that only showed on the wrong side.

It’s a good idea to interface the snap/buttonhole areas on the facing, so do that now, using the marks given on the pattern.

Then, you’ll need to change the order of construction on your dress. Place the dress front and dress back with right sides together and sew along both side seams. Finish the seams and press them open or to the back.

With the dress right side out and the facing wrong side out, place the facing around the dress, matching raw edges of the straps, armholes, and necklines, and pinning all around. Stitch the entire top edge 1/2″ from the edge. Clip and notch seam allowances as appropriate.

Turn the facing to the inside, using a long thin turning tool like a chopstick to press the seam line to the very edge between the fabrics. Press well and topstitch the seam.

From the right side of the dress, “stitch in the ditch” of the side seams to hold the facing in place. Add your snaps or buttons/buttonholes.

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view inside back (serged facing)

3. Hem the Dress

Hem the dress by pressing under 1/4″, then pressing under 1/4″ again and sewing close to the fold. OR, use last week’s hem facing tutorial to finish the dress with a hem facing.

Enjoy!

Special thanks to Willow Jane and Kristi Marie Photography for the modeled photos!

Dress and Top Patterns | Featured Patterns | Perfect A Line | TDD Pattern Add Ons

How to Sew a Hem Facing

Sewing a hem facing is an alternative to turning a hem on a garment. It adds a special touch and is useful for lengthening an existing dress or top, or when you are sewing a garment and have alllllmost enough fabric but are a little short. It also makes hemming A-line tops and dresses simple – no easing stitches needed! Here’s how to sew a hem facing.

We’re using the Perfect A Line Dress pattern for Baby (also available in sizes 2 through 6 as Perfect A Line Dress Pattern for Girls) made with this adorable watermelon print fabric from the upcoming Tutti Fruitti collection by Maude Asbury for Blend Fabrics. You’ll be able to find it at Hawthorne Threads when it arrives any day now. It’s so perfect for a sweet little baby dress – other prints include lemons, pineapples and bananas! The fabric has been provided to use free of charge so we can bring you great tutorials like this one.

Image courtesy of Blend Fabrics

The Perfect A Line dress pattern for Baby is a reversible dress pattern when made by the instructions, but we’ve made it unlined with an all-in-one facing at the straps and armholes and a hem facing at the bottom.

The Perfect A Line Dress Pattern comes in 0-24 months and 2-6 years

We’ll show you how to do the all-in-one facing and make this dress unlined in another blog post next week. You won’t be able to use the hem facing technique with the Perfect A Line until we have both parts of the tutorial up but it’s good to read through it now so you understand how to sew a hem facing, and you can use it with your other unlined garment patterns – even those with a simple gathered skirt from rectangular cuts!

Because the Perfect A Line Dress pattern is drafted to be reversible, it has just 1/2″ seam allowance along the bottom hem. So, when we are not making the dress reversible, we have only 1/2″ to use as a hem allowance. You could press up a narrow 1/4″ hem, but I prefer a deeper hem, so am going to create a hem facing.

How to Sew A Hem Facing

First, make a pattern piece for your hem facing by using the dress front or back pattern piece – the hems on the two are the same on the Perfect A Line and many other patterns – when in doubt, trace off separate facings from the front and back and remember to label them. I measured 2.5″ up from the hem all along the bottom in order to have a 1.5″ finished hem – you can make this wider or narrower as you wish. Draw a line parallel to the original hemline.

Then cut along this line to make your new hem facing pattern piece. Be sure to mark your “fold” edge as soon as you create the pattern piece, as it’s easy to get this piece turned around the wrong way. Then make Tie Dye Diva proud and label your pattern piece as Hem Facing, Cut 2 on Fold.

Next  – you guessed it, use the pattern piece to cut 2 facings on the fold. You can use same fabric, a contrasting fabric, or any woven fabric of a similar weight.

With right sides together, sew the facings together along their short edges and press the seams open.

Press the top (smaller) edge of this facing “loop” under 1/2″ to the wrong side.

With right sides together, place the facing around the dress, aligning the raw bottom edges. Sew around using a 1/2″ seam allowance.

Press the facing away from the dress, then turn the dress to the wrong side and press the facing against the wrong side of the dress. Pin it well so you don’t have bubbles! Then stitch the facing into place by either stitching around 1/8″ from the folded edge, or using a blind hem stitch if you prefer. Depending on your fabric weight and garment type, you may need to trim and/or clip the seam allowances before turning to avoid too much bulk or a wonky hem. (For the Perfect A-Line, I did not do either.)

Now you know how to sew a hem facing! It’s useful for lengthening garments, because you can let down an existing hem and use as little as 1/4″ of the original garment length to sew in a deep hem facing. So for example, if you have an existing dress that is hemmed by pressing under 1/2″, and then 1″, you can let out that hem, sew a facing on using a 1/4″ seam allowance, and lengthen your dress by 1-1/4″! It’s also useful if you are a little short on fabric when you are sewing a new garment. And, a hem facing allows you to sew a deep hem on an A-line shape without having to ease in the hem stitching.

Come back to the Tie Dye Diva blog next week to see how to make this reversible dress pattern completely unlined by drafting and sewing a quick all-in-one facing for the bodice. Plus, we’ve got an adorable cutie wearing this Tutti Fruitti A-line dress that you won’t want to miss.

Dress and Top Patterns | Featured Patterns | New York Minute Dress

Dress Pattern for Fleece – New York Minute Dress!

We’ve got a brand new pattern over at Tie Dye Diva Patterns today – the New York Minute Dress pattern, a dress pattern for fleece and other stable knits. You know all that fleece you got for an amazing price on Black Friday? You don’t need another new-sew blanket. Now you have something more awesome to do with it – and it will only take you a New York minute with our quick-sew pattern.

New York Minute dress pattern for fleece includes long sleeves, short sleeves, kangaroo pocket, inseam pocket, hooded, wide faced neckline and ribbing neckline options. You can finish the hem with a simple turned finish or use ribbing for a banded bubble look. Use the bonus tutorial to make a unisex top! Nine sizes from 12 months to 10 years. Enough options to keep you moving through that stack of fleece and crossing to-dos off your gift list with time left to catch up on Gilmore Girls.

We love New York Minute Dress sewn up in anti-pill fleece (polar fleece). It’s warm, has a slight furry nap that makes your kids look like huggable little teddy bears, and it holds up well in the wash.

Here are New York Minutes some of our testers made with fleece!

Here are some New York Minute Dresses some of our testers made with other fabrics suitable for the pattern:

You can catch NYM dress pattern at a special low price through Tuesday, 12/13. Enjoy!

Fair & Square Dress and Top | free tutorial | sewing tips | TDD Pattern Add Ons | Tutorials

Easy Placket Tutorial – Avoiding the Continuous Lap Placket (if you must!)

Today we have an easy placket tutorial for you. We’ve done a few continuous lap placket tutorials here for the skirt portion of a dress or back of a top. I love them! Some people don’t. So here’s a way to do a very simple alternative to the placket.  It’s not my preferred method because it needs some advance planning, requires a center back seam, and is not as durable as a continuous lap. However, it’s perfectly acceptable, so if you’d like to learn, read on!

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Easy Placket Tutorial

You’ll just need a pattern with no placket or a continuous lap placket, and a sincere dislike of continuous lap. I am using the Fair & Square Dress and Top Pattern for Baby, which ordinarily uses a continuous lap placket.

First, you’ll need to create a center back seam. So, cut your back skirt piece 1” wider than given in the pattern instructions, then cut this back skirt into two equal halves vertically. This will give you an extra ½” at center back for a seam allowance. Finish the center back edges of both skirt back pieces, either with a serger, zigzag stitch, or pinking shears.

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With right sides together, sew (don’t use a serger) the pieces together along center back using a ½” seam allowance. Begin at the bottom, and sew up to a point that is 2” from the top edge. Backstitch to secure your stitches.

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Press the seam open. Topstitch around the opening to secure it.

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That’s all there is to this easy placket tutorial! You can see this opening at left below, and how it looks when the dress is buttoned/snapped also.

That was so quick, let’s have some more fun and learn another new trick! I’m using this adorable The Promise of Spring collection by Cori Dantini for Blend Fabrics. Blend has provided it to me free of charge so I can bring you helpful free tutorials like this one.

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We love our modeled photos from Heart and Soul Photography!

You are probably not sewing with Easter fabric just yet but you might want to snap up The Promise of Spring as soon as you can and stash it away. It makes such adorable Easter dresses with its spring animals, teacups, and flowers. I see it in stock at Shabby Fabrics and several other online sites.

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I loved the patchwork effect of the panel fabric so much that I created a patchwork hem band rather than the single-fabric band called for in the Fair & Square pattern. It is simple to do so I thought I’d show you with a quick patchwork hem band tutorial.

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I chose 5 fabrics because I think an uneven number creates a focal point that is most pleasing to the eye. Check the chart in the pattern to see how wide (direction going across the dress) to cut the hem band for the size you are making, subtract 1”, and divide by 5 (the number of fabrics I am using). It worked out very evenly for this 12-18 month dress that 21” width minus 1” = 20”, divided by 5 = 4”. That’s the finished width of each patch on the hem band. Add back 1” seam allowance to each (½” on each side) for a total of 5”. So for each hem band (front and back) I cut 5 patches 5” wide x the 4.5” long given in the pattern.

Cutting the 10 pieces goes quickly if you create a cardstock template! You can fold each fabric so you are cutting the 2 you need at once and even stack a few fabrics.

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Then just piece them together using 1/2″ seam allowance, trim the seams if desired, press them open, and fold the hem band with wrong sides together. Complete per the pattern instructions.

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Sigh. Do you see my mistake? Look again, and don’t make it. If you have directional prints in your patches check to be sure they will be right side up when you are finished. I decided to leave this but it does bug me, especially because if I had read my own pattern I’d see the note and photo reminding me to check print orientation before attaching the hem band.

Thank goodness it is so cute on this little one that you’d never notice upside-down eggs!

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TDD Pattern Add Ons | Tutorials | Zee's Tee

How to Make a Pokeball-inspired T-shirt!

 

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We are all about Pokémon in our household. All 5 of us enjoy Pokémon Go, and my youngest is a fan of all things Pokémon – playing the card game, trading the cards, reading the books, watching the cartoons, and talking incessantly about HP and CP and XP and actually understanding it all.

So I had to add a Pokéball-inspired tee to his collection of Zee’s Tees. Here’s how I made this one.

How to Make a T-shirt that Looks Like a Pokéball!

You’ll need any t-shirt pattern (I used our Zee’s Tee shirt pattern for boys), red and white knit fabric, and scraps of black and gray knit fabric.

Zee’s Tee pattern includes three styles: Pocket Tee, Yoke, and Colorblock.

Though the Yoke view has a two-color scheme that might work for a Pokéball, I wanted to move the seamline down below the sleeves so the shoulders and sleeves could be all one color. So, let’s use the Pocket Tee view as a starting point. Print the Pocket Tee view (you can skip the actual pocket) and whichever sleeve length you prefer. I am using long sleeves.

Cut the pattern Front and Back 1″ below the underarm point. Add 3/8″ seam allowance to both sides of this cut edge.

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Cut the bottoms from white and the tops from red. Join along the new seam, using a serger or other stretching stitch.

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Then, the black stripe and the circles are simply appliqued to the tee. I highly recommend using stabilizer when appliqueing on knit.

Cut two strips of black knit each 2.5″ long and as wide (stretchiest direction) as the shirt front/back.

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On both the front and back, align the top edge of the black strip with the underarm points, covering the seam between the red and white fabrics. Use a zigzag stitch that goes just off the raw edge of the fabric to sew both long edges of the black stripe to the front and back of the tee.

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Cut 3 circles – a large black circle, a smaller dark gray circle, and a smallest light gray circle. This is my simple interpretation of what the light on the Pokéball looks like and reflects the colors I had on hand – yours may vary and feel free to use other colors or numbers of circles. I cut my largest circle 3.5″ diameter for this size 6 tee. (I wish I had cut it at least an inch bigger!) You can find something in your household to trace (coffee mug, can of beans, etc.) or search ‘printable circle templates’ for a variety of online sources.

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Fold each circle perfectly in half width wise and lengthwise and mark the point where the folds intersect, this is the center of the circle. Stack the two smaller circles, aligning their centers.  Stitch around the small circle. I used a tight zigzag that goes just off the raw edge of the fabric, but since knit does not fray, you could straight stitch this as well, it does not need to be a stretching stitch. If you are zigzagging, go slow. Every 5 or so stitches, stop with your needle in the fabric on an outer ‘zag’ and turn the fabric a tiny bit until you have completed the circle. Now place these on the black circle and st`itch around the middle circle.

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Applique – not my strong point! But my kid will love it anyway.

Center the black circle on the center front of the tee and stitch around the black circle to complete your shirt front.

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Cut your sleeves and neckband from red fabric and finish per pattern instructions.

Catch ’em all! Wear your Potato Chip Pants in camouflage for best Pokémon hunting.

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The Pokémon Go in-game camera can make some very fun photos!

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Daydreamer Dress | Holiday / Costume | TDD Pattern Add Ons

How to Sew a Princess Elena of Avalor Inspired Dress – Tutorial

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Got a little princess determined to be Elena of Avalor for Halloween? You can use our Daydreamer Dress pattern as a good starting point!

Princess Elena doll on Amazon.com [affiliate link]
Elena’s signature dress has a neckline ruffle, an ankle-length layered skirt with a ruffle-edged cutaway and a slim waist with a gold belt. (If you want to get technical, Elena’s dress actually has flounces rather than ruffles. As we do not have royal couturiers sewing for us, let’s stick with ruffles to make it easy on ourselves.)

Inexpensive quilting cotton/cotton blends are fine for this dress, and easy to work with. Double skirts and big ruffles get heavy, so go with lighter-weight fabric. You’ll want a red fabric for the main dress and a slightly lighter but closely color-coordinated print for the ruffles. Elena’s ruffles look like they have a Latin-inspired tile print, but a small floral or geometric will work. (The skirt ruffle cuts are 9” wide so you may need up to a yard of fabric for them).  You’ll also need white or ivory fabric for the underskirt and gold satin for the waistband strip and ties to take the place of the gold belt.

You’ll need advanced or better sewing skills to make the adjustments needed. These instructions are for girl’s size 3 but you can use the measurements as a guideline for all girl’s sizes 2 – 10, which are the sizes included with the Daydreamer Dress pattern.

♦ Lengthen the front and back bodice pieces by 1”. This is shown shaded in gray.
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♦ Cut the neckline ruffle 1.5” wider, so 6” x 42”.

♦ Create the sash ties as directed, from gold satin. Cut only 1 waistband strip, also from the gold satin.

♦ Construct the bodice using this alternate method:  Don’t press under the edge of the waistband strip. Lay it right sides together with the front bodice, aligning bottom edges, and sew. Press the seam allowance to the waistband strip and optionally topstitch.

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Then baste the ties in place, leaving ⅝” free at the bottom edge. Join the side seams of front and back bodices.

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Press under the armholes (see pattern, top of page 9). Complete all of Step 5 to add the neck ruffle. Set the bodice aside.

♦ Cut the overskirt as follows:

Measure your child shoulder to ankle or use the approximate lengths here: Size 2: 26”, size 3: 28.5”, size 4: 31”, size 5: 34”, size 6: 36.5”, size 7/8: 39.5”, size 9/10: 43”.  Subtract the finished length of the Daydreamer dress from the chart on page 2 of the pattern. That’s how much you’ll need to lengthen the skirt cuts …

EXCEPT we added 1” to the bodice so also subtract that 1 inch. (If you’ve added more, subtract that amount).

AND we are going to have a big princess-worthy 4” wide finished ruffle instead of the pattern’s 2.5” wide ruffle, so subtract another 1.5” (this should be good for all sizes). Don’t worry, here’s an example:

Our size 3 child is 28.5” shoulder to ankle. Subtract the 22.5” you see in the finished length chart on page 2. You get 6”. Also subtract the 1” we lengthened the bodice, so you have 5”, and further subtract the 1.5” we’re adding to the ruffle = 3.5”. So add 3.5” to the length of the skirt cut given in the cutting chart in the pattern. For size 3, therefore, you’ll cut the overskirts 17” long [13.5″ from the pattern plus 3.5″] x 29” wide.

With the overskirt pieces right sides together and the width of the skirt going across the top, draw a curve you like similar to the one shown and cut it away from both. I’ve left mine on the 1″ grid so you can see about how I cut the curve.

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♦ Join the skirts along the short straight edge. Measure the edge to find the length from top edge to this seam. Multiply by 3, this is the total length of ruffle you will need.

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♦ Cut ruffle strips 9” wide and join until you have the length you calculated above. Press in half lengthwise with wrong sides together. Taper both ends. I cut away 2.5” at the short ends, tapering down to nothing about 16” away from the short end.

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♦ Gather the ruffle and attach to the overskirt.

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♦ When the overskirt is finished, measure down the back seam from waist edge to hem and cut the underskirt pieces 2” shorter and the same width you cut the overskirt (from the pattern chart).  Sew the side seams of the underskirt and hem it with a ¼” narrow hem.

♦ Gather each skirt to the bodice width. Mark a point on the wearer’s right bodice where you would like the overskirt cutaway to be (if you look at Elena’s, it is not centered).

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♦ Place the bodice, right side out, into the overskirt that is wrong-side out (it may be hard to tell but yes this one in the photo is wrong side out), matching the marked point on the bodice with the overlapped ruffle of the overskirt.

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With the underskirt also wrong-side out, slide it around the overskirt.

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♦ Join skirt and bodice and you are done! Add a ponytail with flowers, gold earrings and sandals.

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Every Day Top | Featured Patterns | free tutorial | Potato Chip Skirt | sewing tips | Tutorials

How to Sew a Blind Hem (on Fabric.com blog)

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We at Tie Dye Diva are SO excited to be the very first featured contributor on the brand-new Fabric.com blog! Today we’re over there showing you step-by-step how to sew a blind hem, both by machine and by hand. Blind hems are so versatile and add a professional look to your garments.

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Our post features our Potato Chip Skirt pattern in Kaufman Corduroy 21 Wale and our Everyday Top pattern in Liberty of London Tana Lawn (affiliate link). We love how Miss Marlee just shines in this outfit for Fall! We’re so grateful to her mama for capturing these gorgeous photos for us.

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The skirt made with babywale corduroy from Robert Kaufman (affiliate link) is a perfect candidate for a blind hem, as a normally-stitched hem crushes the nap and is very visible on the skirt. Blind hemming is also perfect for the delicate Tana Lawn fabric on the Every Day Top. (We’ve lengthened the original hem of the top by 1″ to make it a deep hem suitable for blind hemming.)

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Head on over to the Fabric.com blog to read all about how to sew a blind hem!

Easy Peasy Peasant Dress | free tutorial | Knot or Not Headband | Pocket Tutorials | Storybook Pinafore | TDD Pattern Add Ons

Late for a Date Blog Hop, Free Heart Pocket Tutorial and Fabric Giveaway

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[Edited: Giveaway closed, congratulations Brittany Webb!] Welcome to our heart pocket tutorial and stop on the Late for a Date blog hop featuring the Wonderland collection by Josephine Kimberling for Blend Fabrics! I hope you’ve been enjoying the whimsical take on a classic tale in this collection. These prints will be available soon at the Fat Quarter Shop. But, you can win then right here.  Be sure to read all the way to the bottom for your chance to win this collection for yourself!

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We chose two of our patterns that suit the Wonderland collection perfectly. First we made an Easy Peasy Peasant dress from the adorable pocket watch print Late for a Date in Blue and paired it with a solid white Storybook Pinafore made using the Cross Back Modification here on the blog. A simple black Knot or Not Headband adds a classic Alice look.

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Second, we wanted to show you how this same Cross Back Modified Storybook Pinafore can also be worn as a wear-alone dress. For this dress we chose the fabrics Deck of Cards in Mint paired with Card Suits in White for the adorable heart shaped pockets. And yes, we have a free heart pocket tutorial for you!  We’ve also paired this breezy summer dress with a Knot or Not Headband to complete the look.

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Let’s take a closer look at those heart-shaped pockets!  It is the perfect shape and so much fun.  What little girl wouldn’t love heart-shaped pockets?  They can be added to just about anything and are the perfect place for stashing treasures.

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Heart Pocket Tutorial

Let’s get to the heart pocket tutorial!

  • First, download the pocket pattern piece: Free Heart Pocket Pattern.  Then print at 100% or to your personal preference. Here are some general recommendations for print scale on a girl’s dress. For sizes 4/5 and above print at 100%. Print at 90% for size 2/3, 80% for sizes 6-24 months, and 70% for 0-3 months.
  • As directed on the pocket pattern piece, cut two hearts per pocket. I cut 4 hearts to make 2 pockets.  Make sure to transfer the dots from on either side of the heart at the top of the pattern piece to the right side of the fabric.
  • Use a 1/4″ seam allowance to sew two pockets right sides together.  Leave about an inch unstitched on one side for turning.  You may find it helpful to mark the stitching line so you can sew nice, precise points at the top and bottom.

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  • Before turning, clip into the top center of the heart right to the stitching line and clip across the bottom of the heart close to the stitching line.  Also, clip curves around the top of the heart or trim with pinking shears (as I have).  If trimming with pinking shears, do not trim the area left open for turning.
  • Now turn your heart through the opening.  Use a small tool (knitting needles, chopsticks, small screwdriver) to push out the top curves and bottom point.  Press well turning under the 1/4″ seam allowance at the turning point.
  • Almost done!  Topstitch around the entire heart 1/4″ from the edge.  Again, it may be helpful to mark your stitching line at the top and bottom of the heart. Then, edgestitch (1/8″ from the edge or less) the top of the heart between marks only.
  • Pin the pockets to your garment.  I have chosen to add the pockets last as it is easier for me to place them correctly on a finished garment.  For the Storybook Pinafore, I have placed my pockets centered under the straps vertically on my pinafore and a few inches below the bodice seam.  Pin pockets in place and edgestitch 1/8″ from the edge around bottom of the heart between the marks to secure the pocket to the dress, connecting your stitches to the ones you sewed on the top portion between the marks.

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  • Finally, sew a bartack at the marked points, connecting the 1/8″ stitching line and the 1/4″ stitching line.  This will reinforce the attachment of the pockets so tugging hands don’t accidentally tear the pocket off.  If your sewing machine does not have a pre-programmed bartack stitch, use a close zig-zag similar to that on a buttonhole. Enjoy your heart pocket!

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We hope you have loved seeing our Alice-inspired dresses in Wonderland and the heart pocket tutorial as much as we loved sewing them! Don’t miss the prior and upcoming stops on the Late for a Date Blog hop.

SewVery – August 26
Emily Ann’s Kloset – September 2
Tie Dye Diva – You are here!
Sew Can She – September 16
Jedi Craft Girl – September 23
Flamingo Toes – September 30
A Bright Corner – October 7
CapturedThreadsOctober 14
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Wait, did we say something about a giveaway!?  For a chance to win this fabulous fat quarter bundle of Wonderland fabrics simply leave a comment on this blog post!  The winner will be chosen by random from all comments posted by midnight Pacific on Monday September 12 and the winner will be notified September 13.
[Giveaway closed! Congrats Brittany Webb!]
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Thanks for visiting Tie Dye Diva’s stop on the Late for a Date Blog Hop and good luck in the giveaway – don’t forget to leave a comment below to enter! (I’ll apologize now that you have to scroll through all the comments to get to the comment form. I’ll try to fix that for the next giveaway. Any WordPress experts in the house?)

 

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