Featured Patterns | Lemon Drop Tunic and Dress | Tutorials

How to Sew French Seams – Tuesday Tutorial

In continuing with our seam finishing tutorials and making our clothing gorgeous on the inside too, I thought I would share with you another simple and lovely seam finish, the French seam.  If you would like to see our previous post on seam finishes, you can find them here at Quick Seam Finishes.

French seams are probably one of the more popular seam finishes because they’re so easy to sew and hide raw edges well.  It’s also the perfect seam finish for lightweight or even sheer fabric.  Today I’ll show you two different ways to sew a French seam.

To demonstrate this seam finish I’m using the newest Tie Dye Diva pattern, the Lemon Drop Dress and Tunic.

I absolutely love this pattern with its curved bodice and twirly goodness, not to mention those large lovely pockets for all kinds of treasures!

This pattern is available in sizes 12 months to 9/10 years, includes tunic measurements, ruffles and a hem finish, and is also available in the 14.5″ doll and 18″ doll sizes.

Let’s get started, shall we?  Ok, one more picture of that amazing twirl…

The French Seam

Most importantly when sewing a French seam is to know your pattern’s seam allowance (SA) before cutting your fabric.  Also note which seams are enclosed in the pattern and which ones you will need to finish using a French seam.  Using the Lemon Drop dress’s SA of 1/2″, I know I will have enough SA to sew a French seam, and I will be applying this seam finish to the side seams as the bodice and straps are enclosed.

Method 1

This first method is the most common way to sew a French seam.  First, take your fabric pieces and place the side seams wrong sides together.

Sew your seam using a 1/4″ SA.

Press your seam open to set your stitches.  This also makes it easier to get a clean fold at the seam.

Fold your fabric wrong sides together again and trim your SA to 1/8″.  Here I’m trimming and removing 1/8″ of my 1/4″ SA.

Now fold your fabric right sides together enclosing your SA inside your seam.

Sew using a 1/4″ SA.

Press your seam open and there you have your French seam!  Your raw seam is completely encased and hidden.  I love how finished a French seam looks!

Here is the front view, seen clearly by the headless unicorn.

Method 2  (the serger method)

This method is very quick, but I will caution that it uses a bit more SA.  When using this method, you may want to increase your SA by 1/8″ (if your pattern calls for a 1/2″ like the Lemon Drop).  If your pattern has a 5/8″ SA, you’re good to go and don’t need to add anything.  I didn’t increase my SA and you will see why in my note below.

First, take your fabric pieces and place the side seams wrong sides together.

Now instead of sewing, serge this seam making sure not to cut off any of your SA.

Press this seam open and fold your fabric right sides together to enclose your serged seam.  Since you’re not trimming this seam, you will need to make sure you’re sewing with a SA wide enough to completely enclose this serged seam, otherwise you will see it from the front.  I’ve highlighted my serged seam on the ruler so you can see exactly where it is inside my fold.

A little note about the importance of seam allowance here.  This is where I will be using a 5/16″ SA to completely enclose my serged seam.  This is just a smidge wider than the 1/4″ serged seam and ensures it will be completely hidden.

If you had cut your fabric using an extra 1/8″ SA at the sides like I mentioned above, you would just sew this next seam using a 3/8″ SA and be done.  This is most important if the garment you are sewing is fitted and every 1/16″ makes a difference (I’ve been there, it DOES make a difference in a fitted garment!).  Since the Lemon Drop dress has a gathered skirt portion, I didn’t see the point in making a larger SA, or maybe just do as I say and not as I do!

Now press open and you’re done!

Why use one method over the other?  The serger method is quick and can make the seam a little sturdier, making it easier to turn over and sew the French seam.  It is a bit of a heavier French seam than method 1 is, and if your child has sensitivity to thicker seams, I would definitely recommend method 1.  Here’s a picture comparing the two.

You can see the serged French seam on the right is a bit stiffer.  It’s not a huge deal, but for those looking for a seam finish that’s “softer”, method 1 may be your best bet.

This is also a very easy way to finish the seams in the Lemon Drop Doll pattern too!

You can use this seam finish in many of Tie Dye Diva’s patterns, not just the Lemon Drop.  Here are just some of my favorite patterns that would look great finished with French seams!

Patterns from left to right, top to bottom:  Fair and Square Dress and Top, Peasant Blouse for Girls, Every Day Top, Butterfly Dress, Jon and Janie Romper, Day Dreamer Dress, Potato Chip Pants and Shorts, Seaside Sailor Dress for Baby, and the Easy Peasy Peasant Dress for Girls.

You can find all of these patterns and more in Tie Dye Diva’s pattern shop.  Now you can French all the seams!  Just pay attention to those seam allowances, alright?

Don’t forget to share your makes and inspire us all in Tie Dye Diva’s Facebook group or follow and tag us @tiedyediva on Instagram.  We love to see all those gorgeous seams!

Daffodil Top Pattern | Featured Patterns | free tutorial | Potato Chip Pants/Shorts | Potato Chip Skirt

Quick Seam Finishes – Tutorial Tuesday

If you’re anything like me, then you want your handmade clothing to look as pretty on the inside as it does on the outside.  Finishing your seams doesn’t need to take a long time, but it’s definitely worth that extra effort to keep them from unraveling!  Today I’m going to share with you a few quick seam finishes, the faux flat fell seam and 2 bias tape finishes that will give you neat and professional looking garments.

Both types of seam finishes are excellent when working with thicker fabric, but they can also be used with other fabric weights.  The faux flat felled seam gives you a nice top stitching on the right side of your garment, and the bias tape seam finish gives you a beautiful look on the inside and can even add a fun pop of color!  You can sew these seam finishes with just a traditional sewing machine too.

To demonstrate how lovely these seam finishes are I used the Potato Chip Skirt and Potato Chip Shorts and Pants patterns.  Both classic patterns are great in a variety of woven fabrics and provide ample opportunity to trim with piping or other fancy trim.  The Potato Chip Skirt can also be made reversible and includes a large range of sizes, 12 months through 13/14 years.

There is also the Chocolate Chip Skirt for women which runs from size XS through XXXL if you would also like to make one for yourself too!  The Potato Chip Shorts and Pants pattern includes a cute optional belt and comes in sizes 12 months though 9/10.

Now let’s get started making our clothing beautiful on the inside!

Faux Flat Fell Seams

The faux (or mock) flat fell seam is a very quick seam finish that provides durability and a professional looking finish to garments. It definitely looks great when working with heavier weight fabrics like denim.

I used this seam finish when I made this unlined denim version of the Potato Chip Skirt.

I also used upholstery thread to topstitch (regular thread in the bobbin) my faux flat fell seams with a slightly longer stitch length and a denim needle.

I just love the finish on both sides of this one!  I completed my skirt using a hem facing because I love that extra bit of surprise color and finish.  If you want to use this same finish you can find out how here in our hem facing tutorial.

For this tutorial I am using scrap fabric, but I used the exact same procedure on my side seams for the Potato Chip Skirt.

Taking one of your pieces to be sewn together, finish one seam edge with a serged or zigzag stitch.  Be careful not to remove any of your seam allowance if using a serger.

Place your fabric right sides together and pin.

Sew your seam according to your pattern’s instructions.

Press your seam open and trim the unfinished seam to 1/4″.

Press your finished seam allowance piece over your trimmed piece and pin in place.

My personal preference is to sew from the right side of the garment since I’m usually topstitching at this point (and you definitely want to do this if you’re using topstitching thread).  Stitch a straight line just within the seam allowance and catching the finished seam below; use your first seam as a guide.  When you’re done, you should only see your finished seam underneath which should be hiding your trimmed seam allowance.  If you’re not using special top stitching thread, you can sew from the wrong side of the garment too.  You can see my stitching line in red below.

Here is what it looks like on the right side.  Gorgeous!

Bias Tape Finished Seams

This is probably one of my favorite ways to finish seams.  It does take a bit longer than the faux flat fell seams, but it adds that something extra to the inside of a garment that it makes it worth it.  I typically use single fold bias tape, but you can make your own too.  I will be showing you two different ways to quickly finish seams using bias tape.

Bias Tape Finish 1

I used this seam finish for these denim Potato Chip Shorts.

I eliminated the pocket to make it easy to finish the side seams using this method.  Of course I had to add some trim to the back yoke!

The green bias tape and waistband provide a finished and colorful look!  It takes these shorts to a whole new level right?!

I’m using scraps again for this tutorial, but it’s the same procedure I used making these polka dot Potato Chip Shorts.

Take your pieces and place them right sides together and pin.

Sew your seam according to your pattern’s instructions.

Press your seam open.

Taking your bias tape, open it up and pin the right side edge of your bias tape to the right side edge of your seam allowance.

Move your fabric out of the way to expose the seam allowance and bias tape edges.

Sew together using the fold in the bias tape as a stitching guide, or approximately a 1/4″ seam allowance.

Fold the bias tape over and press.

Now you will wrap your bias tape towards the back of the seam, encasing the raw edge of your seam allowance inside the bias tape.  You may need to trim just a little of the seam allowance to get a good fold, and pin in place.

Edge stitch your bias tape in place using coordinating thread.  I used contrasting thread so you can see them.  You would repeat these steps for the seam allowance on the other side as well.

Bias Tape Finish 2

This finish is essentially the same as bias tape finish 1, except you enclose both seam allowance pieces together inside the bias tape.  I used this method for these striped Potato Chip Shorts since I included the pockets.

The pockets increase the bulk of the seams, and I didn’t want to increase it even further with extra bias tape.

This bias tape finish makes it easier to finish the seams and topstitch where necessary, like at the sides and the back yoke.

I used faux flat fell seams along the legs and U-shaped center seams to avoid the added bulk of the bias tape.  This seam finish also provides reinforcement here which is important.  Aren’t these shorts just gorgeous inside?  The outside is pretty cute too, and that stripes matching!  Nailed it if I do say so myself.

I paired these shorts with the Daffodil Top, a lovely paneled top that has plenty of room for creativity.  I did modify it a little at the neckline to add trim and a tie closure (hint…I’ll be sharing this one with you soon!).

Now that you’ve seen how lovely we can make the inside of our garments, go ahead and try it yourself.  You can find the Potato Chip Skirt and Potato Chip Shorts and Pants patterns in Tie Dye Diva’s pattern shop, and we bet you can’t make just one either!  We’d love to see what you make, so don’t forget to share in the Tie Dye Diva Facebook Group or tag us @tiedyediva on Instagram.

Featured Patterns | New York Minute Dress | Sterling Leggings/Shorties

5 Knits for Kids – New York Minute Dress and Sterling Leggings Patterns (on Cali Fabrics blog)

We are blogging about some gorgeous knits today over at Cali & Co.! Come learn about the 5 amazing and different knits we chose and how Gina sewed them into two very different outfits with our fabulous New York Minute Dress and Sterling Leggings patterns! Also, read to the bottom of this post to save $5 on your CaliFabrics order too!

Here’s a peek at outfit #1 – New York Minute dress featuring the hood, kangaroo pocket, and long sleeves options in Gray Snakeskin Brushed Jersey Knit and Sterling Leggings in Hot Pink Premium Cotton Lycra Jersey.

And a little look at #2 – New York Minute dress with “ribbed” hems, inset pockets, and short sleeves options in a fascinating “Liverpool” fabric along with Sterling Leggings were made using Black Grunge Double Brushed Poly Spandex (“DBP”). There has been so much talk about these fabrics lately!

To tie this second outfit together, an infinity scarf using this luxuriously soft Charcoal Heather Lightweight Rib Knit.

Many more photos, as well as tips and tricks for sewing all of these knits over at our Cali & Co. post.

When you’re ready to order some of these for yourself, come back here and save on your purchase! We’ll earn a discount on our Cali Fabrics too when you use our affiliate link. Click here to get $5 off  off your first purchase over $25 at Cali Fabrics!

Featured Patterns | Garnet Dress, Top and Skirt | Opal Knit Tunic and Dress | Tutorials

Opal and Garnet Pattern Mash Up

I enjoy mashing patterns together, dreaming up the possibilities of what can be made.  Getting the most out of a pattern, personalizing it, and making it our own is why we sew, right?  Today we have a very simple but exciting mash up for you!

Our first mash up pattern is The Garnet Dress, Top, and Skirt.

This pattern has no less than 19 different combinations.  Really, 19 ways?  Yes!

*Dress with long sleeves and knit single fabric skirt.
*Dress with long sleeves and woven single fabric skirt.
*Dress with long sleeves and knit paneled skirt.
*Dress with long sleeves and woven paneled skirt.
*Dress with ruched long sleeves and knit single fabric skirt.
*Dress with ruched long sleeves and knit paneled skirt.
*Dress with ruched long sleeves and woven single fabric skirt
*Dress with ruched long sleeves and woven paneled skirt.
*Dress with short sleeves and knit single fabric skirt.
*Dress with short sleeves and woven single fabric skirt.
*Dress with short sleeves and knit paneled skirt.
*Dress with short sleeves and woven paneled skirt.
*Top with long sleeves.
*Top with ruched long sleeves.
*Top with short sleeves.
*Skirt with knit single fabric skirt.
*Skirt with woven single fabric skirt.
*Skirt with knit paneled skirt.
*Skirt with woven paneled skirt.

There are also no closures to worry about, as it just pulls over the head.  Don’t want to include the collar, there’s a tutorial for that!

Our second mash up pattern is the Opal Knit Flutter Tunic Top and Dress.

This pattern includes flutter sleeves, an optional bodice ruffle, fabric flower, and of course the two lengths.  It really is a sweet yet comfy top.  Have you ever stopped and thought how nice it would be to add sleeves for colder weather though?  Well today we’re going to show you how easy it is to add short or long sleeves to the Opal using the Garnet sleeve pattern!

Adding Sleeves in 2 Easy Steps!

Step 1:  Find your pattern size for the Opal and use the same size for the Garnet sleeve, length of your choice.

Step 2:  Notice the sleeve notch markings where you gather your fabric on the Garnet sleeve?  Now move that notch over to the left and gather from your new notch. I moved mine over 1″ (shown by the pink arrow) for size 3 and it fit perfectly!

That’s it!  Just more gathers to make the Garnet sleeve fit the Opal!

Here is the tunic length with short sleeves made by Rachel:

Here is the tunic length with long sleeves:

Here is the dress length with long sleeves:

The Opal bodice is perfect for lace overlays and ruffles.  This version was made for a birthday party.  The pattern could have been dressed up even more if I had added a lace overlay to the skirt portion, but I wanted her to be able to wear the dress casually as well.  I just love the silhouette of this dress!

Both patterns will be available at a special price through March 3rd in the Tie Dye Diva Pattern shop.  Also be sure to share your Garnet and Opal mash ups in the Tie Dye Diva Facebook group or tag us @tiedyediva on Instagram.

Now that you’ve seen our mash ups, we can’t wait to see yours!

Dress and Top Patterns | Featured Patterns | Perfect Party Dress | Romper Patterns | Ruffled Romper

Romper and Dress in Flutter & Float!

So excited to share these projects with you today! I sewed up a sweet sister set with the Perfect Party Dress pattern and the Ruffled Baby Bubble Romper pattern using the brand new Flutter & Float collection by Ana Davis for Blend Fabrics.

The Perfect Party Dress is made with Float in Green, Flower Crown in Pink, and finished off with a sash in the Breeze print. Don’t you love it when you have the perfect color KAM snaps on hand?

I made the Ruffled Baby Bubble Romper with Float in Blue as the main fabric with Buttercup in Blue straps, and tied it together with big sister’s dress with Breeze ruffles. The wavy print makes the ruffles look extra ruffly!

We’ve updated our Criss Cross Back Romper Pattern modification post to make it even easier to use and to include instructions for KAM snaps – it’s so simple, two steps! The pattern itself will now include the criss cross instructions, and if you have already purchased the baby romper pattern or want to make criss-cross straps for the Girls Ruffled Romper pattern, you’ll find those instructions right at the link.

Ready to see these sweet sisters? Hold on to your hat, the cute might carry you away!

Many, many thanks to Jessi at Darkroom Junkie Photography in Amarillo, TX for bringing The Perfect Party Dress Pattern and the Ruffled Bubble Romper Pattern to life on these absolutely beautiful children!

I know this hot air balloon fabric and the coordinates are going to be super popular, so give a search around the internet (here’s a current search of Etsy listings for Flutter & Float) or your local quilt shop for Flutter & Float soon so you don’t miss out!

free tutorial | Pocket Tutorials | Tutorials

Free Kitty Cat Pocket Pattern and Tutorial

A lot of people spied our adorable kitty pocket on last week’s New York Minute Dress peplum tutorial!

How about we show you how to make them, and give you a free downloadable pocket pattern too.

Kitty Pocket Tutorial

  • First, download the free pocket pattern piece: TDDkittypocket.pdf (200 downloads) .  Then print at 100% or to your personal preference – the finished pocket printed at 100% is 4.5″ wide and 4″ long.
  • As directed on the pocket pattern piece, cut two kitty shapes per pocket.
  • Embellish the kitty face as desired. I’ve included a few sample faces you can trace. Below shows the faces done with heat-transfer vinyl, sewing-machine stitches (tight zigzag for lines and the built-in eyelet stitch for eyes), and, my favorite, hand embroidery. You can use tiny buttons for eyes and nose if they safe for the age of the wearer.

  • Use a 1/4″ seam allowance to sew two pockets right sides together.  Leave about an inch unstitched on one side for turning.  You may find it helpful to mark the stitching line so you can sew precisely around the ears and top of the head.

  • Before turning, clip into the inner corners where the ears join the head and across the points of the ears.  Also, clip around the curve or trim with pinking shears.  Do not trim or clip the area left open for turning.

  • Now turn your kitty through the opening.  Use a small tool (knitting needles, chopsticks, small screwdriver) to push out the curves and ears.  Press well turning under the 1/4″ seam allowance at the turning point.
  • Topstitch around the entire kitty a scant 1/4″ from the edge.  Again, it may be helpful to mark your stitching line. Then, edgestitch (1/8″ from the edge or less) across the top of the head from the outer point of one ear to the outer point of the other. Remember, start 1/8″ in from the edge and end 1/8″ in from the edge.
  • Pin pocket(s) in place on your garment and edgestitch around the bottom of the head to secure the pocket to the garment, connecting your stitches to the ones you sewed on the top portion.

  • Finally, sew a bartack or tight zigzag across the tops of the ears to reinforce the pocket.

Solids or ‘blenders’ work best for the kitty face; you want to avoid fabrics with a bold or busy print. We’ve shown this tutorial to you in fabrics from the Tutti Fruitti and Panda-Rama collections by Maude Asbury for Blend Fabrics with the exception of the hand-embroidered sample shown on a solid linen.


Featured Patterns | free tutorial | Garnet Dress, Top and Skirt | Tutorials

How to Make A Fabric Bead Necklace

The moment I saw the pink colorway of the Panda-rama collection by Maude Asbury for Blend Fabrics, I knew the Garnet Dress, Skirt and Top pattern for Girls would be perfect to showcase these playful prints.  The pattern is available in sizes 12 months – 10 years and includes the dress pattern with knit bodice and woven or knit skirt, long or short sleeves, and a sweet woven collar, as well as views for making a knit top and a circle skirt that can be sewn using woven or knit fabric.  The skirt on the dress or separate skirt can be made with either a single fabric print or with fabric panels and features a knit waistband.  Of course I was going to use those panels to feature Panda-Rama’s adorable pandas, lanterns, and geometric prints!

Blend Fabrics has provided us this fabric free of charge but all opinions are our own.

The top is made with cotton/lycra knit fabric, and I used the Pink Pin Tip tutorial in the Garnet pattern for the ruched long sleeves.  I love ruching as it adds a bit of fanciness to an otherwise simple top.  I also appliqued that sweet little panda face because, well, pandas!

The pattern also includes a darling woven collar, but I decided to just add a simple neckband to let the fabric necklaces we’re making stand out.  You can revisit our tutorial on Omitting the Collar on the Garnet Dress/How to Sew a Neckband on Any Knit Tee if you would like to do this too.

Making a fabric bead necklace (and bracelet) is such a fun way to showcase the tonal geometric prints.  The wooden beads also add a fun bit of color and break up the pattern.

You can also make a fabric bead necklace without visible beads, like we did here with the hanging lanterns print.  Instead of using more beads for contrast, we simply used knots.  The ring is sewn on using a zipper foot.

To make these fabric bead necklaces and bracelets, you will need fabric and larger sized beads.  We used three different sizes.  If you would like to make the fabric bead necklace with the gold ring, you would also need one of those.  I was able to find the beads and the ring in the macrame section of my local craft shop.  The wooden beads are also non-toxic, and although we left them natural, you can always paint them to match the fabric too if that’s your thing.

My girl took the reins on this project and made most of them herself, so if you can you should definitely make these with your kiddos too!  We used a few simple techniques to make these fabric bead necklaces and bracelets.  We kept it simple because they’re kids’ jewelry, but you can definitely add clasps and closures to make them more “grown up”.

Now let’s make some fabric bead necklaces and bracelets!

First, you will need to cut strips of fabric to fit the largest bead you will be putting inside of your fabric bead necklace.  Here is your cutting guide:

  • 16mm beads – cut your fabric 2 3/8″ wide by about 16″ long (length for bracelet)
  • 20mm beads – cut your fabric 2 7/8″ wide by 45″ long (length for necklace)
  • 25mm beads – cut your fabric 3 1/2″ wide by 45″ long

Lay your fabric strip right side up, then fold it in half lengthwise with right sides together, and sew along the long edge using a 1/4″ seam allowance, stopping about 1″ from the end.

Turn your tube right side out using a safety pin or bodkin.

Taking the end opposite of the one with the 1″ opening, tie a knot leaving a tail.  For the bracelet leave only a few inches for the tail, but for the necklace, leave several inches depending on the design you’re working on.

Begin with your first bead, pushing it all the way inside to the knot you just tied.  If the bead won’t fit in your tube easily, you’ll need to cut a wider strip.

If you want contrasting beads on the outside, pinch your fabric at the end to push inside the bead, twisting and using needle nose pliers if necessary to pull it through.

Alternate this way until you get your desired length.

When you finish with your final bead, tie another knot at the end closely to your last bead.

Here we tied both ends and simply cut the tails off.  You could also fold the ends in and hand or machine sew them closed.

These are so fun and easy to make, and they complete this Garnet skirt and top ensemble.  Look at how that paneled circle-skirt twirl just shows off these prints!  The pattern recommends 5 different prints for the skirt panels, but I was able to use just 4 (1 extra panel each of the panda and lantern prints), and it still looks great.

It looks great little too!  Aren’t these the sweetest little panda faces on this Ruffled Baby Sunsuit/Romper?  Check out those charming little birdies in the background with their rosy cheeks.

Panda-rama is arriving in fabric shops now (I see it in Fat Quarter Shop now) and is available in two colorways, including this blue you see above.


Featured Patterns | New York Minute Dress | TDD Pattern Add Ons | Tutorials

T(h)utorial Thursday: Adding a Peplum to the New York Minute Dress

The New York Minute Dress is not just a dress pattern, but did you know it also includes a bonus tutorial to make a pullover top?  Today we’re going to share with you how to take it a step further and add a sweet little drop waist peplum top pattern.

Peplums are such a great way to dress up a casual fleece top, and with this one, you can still add several of the other options that already come with the pattern, like the kangaroo pocket, hood, ribbing, or whatever you choose!

Make sure you have a copy of the New York Minute Dress pattern!  This pattern is designed to be a quick sew using those fun fleece fabrics we love to stock up on.  If you don’t have fleece, don’t fear, there are several other fabric recommendations like french terry, interlock, velour, and some have even sewn it up using cotton lycra!  It’s also available in sizes 12 months to 9/10 years.

Let’s go ahead and jump right in shall we?!

Choose a Size

After printing and assembling your pattern, you will want to wait before making any size changes.  Make sure to select the size based on your child’s chest measurement.  If your child is in between sizes, the pattern recommends sizing down for the dress, but if you want to layer this top version, go ahead and size up.  Also note your child’s height size, but save that for later.

My daughter’s chest measurement is 21.5″, so she falls smack dab in size 3, and I’m going with that.  Her height is 43″ and puts her in size 5 for length.

Creating the Top

To determine the drop waist length for the top, measure from your child’s underarm to their upper hip, or wherever you would like the peplum to start.  If you don’t have access to that measurement, go ahead and use the chart below (the chart’s measurements include seam allowance).  I recommend using your child’s height measurement for your cut length.

My daughter measures 8″, and I’m adding 3/8″ for seam allowance, so my total length measurement is 8 3/8″.

Taking your NYM front and back pattern pieces and a ruler, draw a straight line from the underarm seam straight down the number of inches you just measured, then draw a line straight across to the center fold line.  If you’re using the cut chart, remember to use the chest size for the underarm seam, and the height size for the cut length.

I drew an 8 3/8″ line straight down from the underarm seam for both my front and back pattern pieces.


To figure out the size of your peplum piece we’ll need to do a little simple math so grab a calculator.  Don’t worry, we’ll break it down into little bite sized steps!  You can also use the charts below if you would prefer to (chart measurements include seam and hem allowance).

Peplum Width

Step 1:  Measure the width of your waist pattern piece and multiply it by 4.

My waist piece is 6.25″ wide, so I multiplied that by 4 and now have 25.

Step 2:  For heavier fleece and knits, or for less gathers, multiply your number in step 1 by 1.25.  For lighter knit fabric, or for more gathers, multiply your number in step 1 by 1.5.

I’m making both versions to show as an example in the same fabric, you would only choose one.  These are my peplum width calculations.

Step 3:  Now take that final number and add 3/4″ for seam allowance (3/8″ for each side).

Peplum Length

For the length of the peplum piece, I used the chart on NYM pattern page 14 to derive these measurements.  If you would like it longer or shorter, just add or subtract from the number under your size.

My daughter is a size 5 for height, so using 5″ for length, these are my final peplum measurements LxW:

Also make any changes to the length of your sleeve’s pattern piece at this point and choose your neckline option.  If you want to include the kangaroo pocket, follow the instructions on page 14 of the pattern.

To help you choose…

This version has less gathers.  The peplum is basically eased into the top.

This version has more gathers and plenty of poof.

Here is the hoodie version with more gathers and a kangaroo pocket.

That’s a lot of preparation, or at least it looks that way, but it goes quickly right?

Sewing the Peplum

Well now let’s get sewing!  We’ll start on Step 2 of the pattern, with the sleeves.  Continue with each step, omitting the pocket steps, until you reach Step 6.

You should have your top done except for the bottom.  Taking your peplum piece, fold it in half right sides together, and sew the short ends using a 3/8″ seam allowance.

Now follow the hemming instructions in step 6a of your pattern to hem your peplum piece.

Next, sew two rows of gathering stitches at the top of your peplum piece using your favorite gathering method, but don’t gather yet.

Turn your peplum piece so the wrong side is facing out and mark center and sides with pins.

Place your top right side out, inside of the peplum piece.  Pin peplum to top matching the center back of your top with the seam of your peplum.  Pin the center front and sides of your pieces.

Gather until your peplum and top openings match and sew together using a 3/8″ seam allowance.

Carefully press your seam towards the top, remove any visible gathering stitches, and topstitch to help it lay flat.  If you’re adding a pocket you would also do that now.

A little sneak peak at this adorable free kitty face pocket tutorial that’s in the works.  Some hand stitching and a heart-shaped stud for the nose, and I LOVE the way it turned out!

Now you have a dropwaist peplum top!  It’s fashionable and cozy!

Daffodil Capris | Daffodil Top Pattern | Featured Patterns | sewing tips | Tutorials

How to Sew an Underlining – on the Fabric.com Blog

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Tie Dye Diva is blogging over at the Fabric.com blog again today! Last time we showed you how to sew a blind hem. Today our fabulous new TDD assistant Gina is over there showing you step-by-step how to sew an underlining so you no longer have to pass by fabrics you love but just seem ‘too sheer’.

Our post features our Daffodil Top pattern in *Liberty of London Tana Lawn lined with an inexpensive Sheer Mist voile. We’ve paired it with our Daffodil Capri pattern in a yummy *Kaufman Brussels washer linen blend. How cute and classy is this for a Valentine’s look?

You’ve probably drooled over Liberty lawn before, but maybe were not sure how to sew with a slightly sheer fabric. Head over to Fabric.com’s blog and learn how easy it can be to sew an underlining!

Featured Patterns | free tutorial | Knot or Not Headband | Perfect A Line | Pocket Tutorials | Tutorials

Foldover Patch Pocket Tutorial – Riley Blake Enchanted Blog Tour

Welcome to Tie Dye Diva’s stop on the Enchanted collection blog tour sponsored by Riley Blake Designs! We are super thankful to Dodi Poulsen of Two Sisters at Squirrel Hollow for again asking us to sew up one of her new collections – her designs are always perfect for children’s clothing and versatile for so many other projects too.

We chose to feature the Enchanted Plaid in Pink – because, you guys, PLAID! And PINK! Best of all, it’s printed on the bias so you get that fabulous diamond pattern without having to cut and work with bias-cut fabric. We chose the pretty Enchanted Main in Mint for the reverse of our Perfect A-Line dress for Baby and Knot or Not Headband. As coordinates, we’re using the collection’s sweet little dots in Mint and Pink. You can see the rest of the Enchanted collection here. These fabrics were provided to us free of charge so we could bring you this post and free tutorial, but all opinions are our own. Be sure to read all the way to the bottom to find out how to enter to win a bundle of Enchanted of your very own!

Our Perfect A-Line Dress pattern for Baby (also available as Perfect A Line Dress Pattern for Girls 2 to 6) is one of my go-tos when a I want a special fabric to take center stage on a smooth surface, unbroken by seams or gathers. As soon as I saw the gorgeous pink plaid, I knew I wanted to use this pattern, along with our Knot or Not Headband pattern. The result is so cute and classic!

An A-line dress is a great canvas for embellishments like applique or pockets, and we created some sweet and simple little foldover patch pockets we want to share with you today.

How to Sew A Foldover Patch Pocket

You’ll need only scraps of two coordinating fabric for the foldover patch pockets (one for the main side and one for the reverse, which will show as the folded-over top portion), a snap or button, a little fusible or sew-in interfacing, and our downloadable foldover patch pocket pattern piece here: TDDfoldoverpocket.pdf (182 downloads)

For each pocket you want to make, cut 1 pocket from each of your two fabrics, and 2 pieces of interfacing. Mark the large black dots on the right sides of the fabric pieces and mark the button/snap placement on the right side of the reverse fabric.

Next, apply interfacing to the flap portion of both the main and reverse pocket pieces – this will be the top of the pocket above the fold line, inside the 1/4″ seam allowance. Then with right sides together, sew the two pocket pieces together using a 1/4″ seam allowance and leaving about 1″-1.5″ open on a straight side for turning. (I sewed first and interfaced after, which is why you don’t see interfacing in my sewing-step photo.)

Clip the curves, or be lazy like me and using pinking shears, but leave the seam allowance remaining outside of the turning gap. Turn and press, rolling the seam to the exact edges and turning in the seam allowance at the gap. Stitch all the way around, a scant 1/4″ from the edge.

Be sure the large black dots are marked on your pocket piece. Pin the pocket in place on your garment and edgestitch (1/8″ from the edge) around the bottom only of the pocket, from black dot to black dot.

Bar tack or narrow zigzag between the topstitching lines at the black dots on both sides. I used a 3 height, 0.3 width zigzag.

Fold and press the flap along the fold line. Last, sew a button or press a snap through the flap and the pocket, but not through the garment fabric.

How simple was that? Enjoy your foldover patch pockets!

Thank you to Willow Jane and Kristi Marie Photography for the modeled photos!


Blog Tour Schedule

Monday, Jan 23rd – Little Londyn

Tuesday, Jan 24th – Jedi Craft Girl

Wednesday, Jan 25th – Loose Threads

Thursday, Jan 26th – Meags and Me

Friday, Jan 27th – Pretty by Hand

Monday, Jan 30th – Tie Dye Diva

Tuesday, Jan 31st – Two Sisters as Squirrel Hallow

Wednesday, Feb 1st – Striped Swallow Designs

Thursday, Feb 2nd – Izzy and Ivy

Friday, Feb 3rd – Ellis and Higgs

Monday, Feb 6th – Aurifil

Tuesday, Feb 7th – The Crafy Quilter

Wednesday, Feb 8th – Two Sisters at Squirrel Hallow

Thursday, Feb 9th – Jina Barney Designz

Friday, Feb 10th – Riley Blake

You could win a bundle of Enchanted fabric by visiting Dodi’s blog, Loose Threads (www.sashgals.com) and leaving a comment.

One entry per blog post, per day of the Blog Tour, there on Loose Threads.

Enter every day to increase your chance of winning!