I love when I am able to give customers the patterns they have asked for! TDD fans asked for a cover-up for sleeveless dresses, and being unable to decide on just one style to make for you, I made three different looks, all in one pattern. East Coast Cardi, Bolero and Shrug Pattern is a quick-sew pattern for knit fabrics that includes three versatile views – snap- (or button-) front cropped cardi, bolero with or without a front tie, and a shrug with built-in ties.
The cover image features the snap-front cardi view with ruched sleeves, made by testing team member Genevieve O. Do you recognize New York Minute Dress pattern peeking out beneath?
All views have long sleeves with subtle gathers at the shoulder and a hi-low hem that lets her outfit shine in front, and gives coverage in back.
The bolero view can be made with or without the front tie.
The shrug view features built-on ties that knot in front for a casual look that looks as great with dresses or jeans as it does at dance class.
East Coast Cardi, Bolero and Shrug Pattern includes nine sizes: 12-18 months, 18-24 months, 2T, 3T, 4T, 5, 6, 7/8 and 9/10.
Recommended sewing experience with knit fabric: Advanced Beginner or higher.
Our New York Minute Dress Pattern Sew Along has come to an end already – it really did fly by in a New York minute! We enjoyed seeing your sew-along makes, giving you tips on fabric choices and pocket options, and showing you some fun modifications to the pattern including the scrunch neck and hi-low hem. Remember, those instructions are here on the blog whenever you might want to give them a try! If you didn’t get a chance to pick up your pattern, you can still grab it at the discounted sew-along price through today!
As is our tradition, we now bring you a parade of participants’ lovely creations!
Two-way sequins are my favorite! So fun and super blingy on Sue’s beautiful wintery NYM! TDD <3’s you too, Sue!
Amy made a cozy NYM with Minnie fabric and the perfect accents of black ribbing.
Carol’s cutie is ready to play in this NYM with a fun print and stripey accents.
Marie, we love that you went with the dark pink after polling group members, it looks great!
Shana’s girl is adorable in this classic look! I want one just like this for myself!
Amanda’s first time sewing fleece had a super cute result (though hard to go wrong when your model has this much personality)!
Judie made two fabulous New York Minute dresses. The second one’s modified with a pop of pink zipper to accommodate fabric without much stretch. Bravo for ‘make it work’ moments!
Elaine’s dress has pandas and a pocket! We also love her make-it-work brilliance after accidentally cutting sleeves the wrong size – a little ribbing and a cute cropped length!
Sonya made these two great New York Minute dresses featuring sew-along’s hi-low hem and a sew-along inspired cowl neck!
Crystal also did a take on the sew-along scrunch neck, making a cozy folded turtleneck for her sweetie!
So much cuteness in this hedgehog-printed french terry NYM by Cathy!
We love this absolutely STUNNING embroidery on Inma’s Christmas-themed NYM!
Laura famously made this first NYM in 45 minutes on her girl’s birthday morning! Then she made two more, one more in cotton/lycra and one in minky-backed fleece with a hi-low hem.
Can you believe Linda made these mostly with scraps and leftovers? No kitten!
One last thank you to our fabulous sponsors, and congratulations to the randomly-chosen winners: Sue who won a $50 gift certificate to Raspberry Creek Fabrics, Shana who won a $50 gift certificate to Cali Fabrics, and Laura who won a $50 gift certificate to Imagine Gnats!
Today is the last day of our sew along, and it’s been so much fun! Many of you have almost completed your dresses or tops, but if you’re just joining us, you still have time. You have until Sunday to enter your completed New York Minute dress or top into our Tie Dye Diva Patterns Facebook group entry thread. Also, you can find our previous New York Minute Sew Along posts here:
If you’ve chosen to finish your hem using the hi low hemline, we’re going to walk you through that one today. Those of you that have selected the hi low hem with the ribbing, simply attach your ribbing as shown in step 6b on page 12 of the pattern’s instructions, and you’re done! If you’re finishing your dress with the hemmed bottom, we’re going to make some hem facings to finish everything up and make our dresses look pretty.
Making Your Hi Low Hem Facing
Since we can see the inside of our hem finish from the front, we want to make a hem facing long enough to keep our dress looking neat and finished. First, you’ll want to grab your front hi low hem altered dress pattern piece, and trace a new line 2″ above the bottom hemline, shown in pink below. Cut on this new line, and this will be your front hem facing pattern piece. Repeat the same process to the back hi low dress pattern. Alternatively you can simply trace the bottom of your front and back dress patterns, and create a 2″ hem facing as well.
Once you have your front and back hem facing pattern pieces ready, you will cut 1 front and 1 back hem facing pieces on the fold of your fabric. Remember to mark your front center with 1 notch and your back center with 2 notches at the bottom to tell them apart.
Sewing Your Hem Facing
Place front and back hem facings right sides together matching side seams and sew using a 3/8″ seam allowance.
With your dress right side out, slide your hem facing up over the bottom of your hi low dress matching raw edges, side seams, and center front and back notches. Sew at the bottom edge using a 1/2″ seam allowance and trim this seam to 1/4″ if you didn’t serge it.
Pull your hem facing down and press using lots of steam (don’t forget the pressing cloth). Turn hem facing under towards wrong side of dress and press again. Top stitch close to your hem facing’s raw edge, give it one last press, and you’re done!
It looks great from the front, and although we used the same fabric for our facing as our dress, you can always use a contrasting fabric for a fun look!
I absolutely love the look of this hemline. It’s so fun and easy too! We used our sew along sponsor Raspberry Creek Fabrics’ Club French terry for the main fabric, and lined the hood and made our kangaroo pocket with polar fleece. Never too soon to sew for the holidays!
Have fun finishing your New York Minutes, and be sure to enter the giveaway to win one of THREE $50 gift certificates for fabric! To enter the giveaway, finish your NYM, snap your best photo, and post it to the Giveaway thread in Tie Dye Diva’s Facebook group which will be posted later today (Thursday). Giveaway details: Winners will be chosen randomly from eligible posts to the giveaway thread, entries will be accepted through Sunday Nov. 12 and three winners chosen on Monday Nov. 13. Open worldwide. Photos posted to the giveaway thread will be reposted here on the Tie Dye Diva blog. This giveaway is in no way sponsored, endorsed or administered by, or associated with Facebook.
We have to give a big shout out to our sew along sponsors, Cali Fabrics, Imagine Gnats, and Raspberry Creek Fabrics! Each of them have generously donated $50 gift certificates to their shops, and they all have drool-worthy fabric. If you haven’t taken a look at their shops, you should. Make a wish list in case you win one of the gift certificates!
Good luck, and thank you to everyone that participated!
You’ve made it to the halfway point you New York Minute sew-alongers! Today we’re moving onto steps 4 and 5 of the New York Minute Dress pattern, finishing the neckline and sleeves. If you’re just joining us, you can find our previous posts here:
Today’s modification is probably one of our favorites simply because of the cozy factor, and you can play around with some cute fabric for the lining! This scrunch neck will keep kids’ necks super warm and comfortable, and the bonus is that this hack is incredibly simple and fast to make. We do recommend making a practice neck piece first to ensure it fits properly over your child’s head and is the desired length.
This scrunch neck is made with fabric from one of our lovely sponsors. The striped fabric is Raspberry Creek Fabric’s Club French Terry and lined with polar fleece. This French terry has plenty of 4-way stretch and excellent recovery, and the polar fleece lining gives it a bit of structure and that added warmth that’s perfect for colder weather.
This scrunch neck is made with micro fleece from Joann’s, and Cali Fabrics’ hot pink polar fleece. It has a beautiful scrunch even with both layers being fleece. Talk about warm and cozy!
Creating Our Scrunch Neck
First, place your front and back dress pattern pieces together, lining up center fold lines. You will want to measure the neckline from shoulder point to shoulder point, shown below in pink.
Take this measurement and double it, then add 1″ ([length of neckline x 2] + 1″ seam allowance = your neck width). This will be the width of your neck piece. The length is really up to you, as you can make it short and simple, or you can make it long and scrunchy. We chose a scrunchy neck with cozy folds, so our final main neck piece measures 5″ long X 16.5″ wide for a size 4 dress.
If you are making this in the smaller sizes, keep in mind you don’t want the scrunchy neck to cover their faces, so keep it shorter. You will be able to try it on them before attaching it to your dress, so you can always make changes if you need to, especially if it only needs to be shortened.
Alright, so from your fabric, you will cut a neck main and neck lining piece.
Take your main piece and fold it right sides together, matching short raw edges. Sew this seam using a 1/2″ seam allowance. Repeat with your lining piece.
Turn your lining piece right side out, and slide it into your neck main piece so right sides are facing, and match up the top neckline and back seam.
Sew this seam using a 1/2″ seam allowance.
Pull open, and with wrong side facing you, press your neckline seam well, using a pressing cloth so you don’t melt your fleece.
Turn your neck piece right side out and press using your pressing cloth.
Now is the time to try it on your child to make sure you like the fit. It might be just a bit snug pulling over their heads because it is something of a “turtle neck”, but it shouldn’t be uncomfortable. Also keep in mind the length, especially for the smaller sizes. If it seems too long, simply shorten the bottom raw edges of the neck main and lining pieces until you get your desired length.
Sewing Our Scrunch Neck
Yesterday we completed through step 3 of the New York Minute pattern, sewing the shoulder seams. Now we’re moving on to step 4, finishing the neck. We’re doing it a bit differently if you’re adding the scrunch neck though. First, turn your dress wrong side out and your scrunch neck piece right side out.
Slide your neck piece inside the dress so right sides and raw edges are together, matching the center back of your dress with the neck seam. Also match your center front seam, and divide the other points in half too, so everything matches up. You shouldn’t have to stretch the neck piece at all while sewing in place as everything should match up evenly.
Sew this seam using a 3/8″ seam allowance.
Turn right side out and marvel at the coziness!
Our final version includes inset pockets and a ribbing hemline. The microfleece offers more drape as it’s a lighter weight fleece, yet it’s plenty warm on colder days.
If you find the scrunch neck to be too tight using the above method, you may have to widen the neckline on your pattern piece and make your neck piece wider. You can do this by lowering the front dress neckline up to an 1″, and lower the back a 1/4″, then blend to the shoulder seams (don’t remove anything from the shoulder width). Always make a practice version before you cut into your special fabric when making changes like this to a pattern. Once you have widened the neckline, go back to the beginning of this tutorial to derive the measurements for your new neck piece.
Now finish through to step 5 on page 12 of the pattern to add your sleeves. Tomorrow we’re finishing up our dresses with the hemline we’ve selected. If you’ve decided to add the hi-low hem modification, we’ll be showing you how to do that. For now you’re done, but don’t forget to share as we love to see what you’ve been working on, although it’s not required! Go ahead and hop on over to Tie Dye Diva Patterns Facebook group and share your progress, or just visit to see what everyone else is creating and show your support!
Don’t forget we have some amazing prizes from our wonderful New York Minute Sew Along sponsors! Cali Fabrics, Imagine Gnats, and Raspberry Creek Fabrics have each generously contributed $50 store credits for our sew along winners, so go ahead and take a peek at their shops to dream and drool over their beautiful fabrics and notions! We are so thankful to have them on board with us!
Welcome to Day 2 of our New York Minute sew along! Today it’s all about the pockets, and there are plenty for you to choose from. We’ll be completing steps 1 through 3 of the New York Minute Dress pattern, so if you’re thinking about adding one of our sew along pockets, then today’s post is for you. There’s plenty of time to catch up, so if you’re just joining us, you can find our previous posts here:
The New York Minute Dress comes with two pocket variations, set in pockets and a kangaroo pocket, but this dress provides the perfect canvas for a variety of other pockets too. Did you know that there are already several free pocket patterns on the blog? You can find them by hovering your mouse over the Tutorials selection at the top to drop down a menu that includes “Pocket Tutorials“.
When you click on that, you will see a variety of free pocket patterns and instructions for sewing them up.
If you recognize the cat pocket, we’ve used it in the past on this New York Minute peplum hack. Isn’t it just so sweet?! We used a heart stud for the nose which made it quick and super adorable. Of course you can also make the peplum version during the sew along which takes advantage of the top tutorial that comes with the pattern.
Sewing the Pockets
Really the only thing you need to know about using the various other pockets is placement. Ultimately it’s up to you and where your child wants them, but we’ll show you where we like to place them. We selected the heart pocket for today’s striped dress mostly because my girl loves pandas, and the heart pocket is a perfect way to highlight this cute little panda.
You will need your front dress pattern piece for this one. First, lay flat your front fabric piece, then place your front pattern piece over your fabric, lining it up again. Taking a ruler, measure the length of the inset pocket opening, and note the center point, highlighted in pink below. You will place the top of your finished pocket at this height.
Now to figure out how far over to place it, find the widest point of your pocket, and place this edge 5/8″ from the side seam, shown in yellow below.
Stitch your pocket in place following that pocket’s tutorial instructions.
That’s it! Now go ahead and continue on through step 3 of the pattern, sewing your front and back dress pieces together at the shoulders. We’ll return tomorrow with one of our favorite dress hacks, the scrunch neck.
We’d love to see which pockets you’ve selected, so hop on over the Tie Dye Diva Facebook group and show us! If you share on Instagram, use the hashtag #nymsewalong, and make sure to tag us too @tiedyediva so we can show our love. See you back here tomorrow!
It’s finally here! The New York Minute Sew Along! Can you believe it’s almost been a year since the pattern was released? We don’t know about you, but we’ve been anticipating this sew along for months, and we’re so happy to have you joining us. Our next few days together (because this sew along is as quick as its namesake!) will be filled with lots of fun inspiration, tips, pattern hacks, and of course at the end lots of lovely New York Minute (NYM) creations!
If you don’t have the New York Minute Dress pattern already, you will need to pick up a copy to participate. It’s on sale through the end of the sew along. This pattern is available in sizes 12 months to 9/10 years and comes with a variety of options: 3 necklines, 2 sleeve lengths, 2 pocket variations, and 2 ways to finish the hem. It even provides a tutorial to make it into a top! The NYM pattern is also beginner friendly, and it’s the first Tie Dye Diva pattern to include layers, so you can simply print the size you need.
We love throwing in sew along options too, so there’s something new for those who have already made loads of these dresses! You will have a variety of pockets to choose from, a cozy scrunch neck hack, and a fashionable hi low hem.
Before we get into our activities for today though, let’s go over what you can expect over the next few days.
Our Sew-Along Timeline
Monday – Today we’ll go over how to select the right size and get the correct fit. We’ll print our pattern, make our necessary changes to the pattern depending on size and sew-along options, finalize our fabric selections, and cut our fabric.
Tuesday – (Pattern steps 1-3) We will go over pocket variations, prepare our sleeves, and sew the front and back together. Did I mention LOTS of pocket choices?!
Wednesday – (Pattern steps 4-5) We will be showing you how to create and add the scrunch neck if that’s one of the sew along options you’ve selected, and assemble the dress (or top).
Thursday – (Pattern step 6) Our last day together! We are going over the hi low hem finish for those who have selected this sew along hack. Everyone else will be finishing their hems according to the pattern.
Let’s not forget about those prizes! You will have through Sunday, November 12th to enter your NYM dress/top in a sew along thread that will be posted in the Tie Dye Diva Patterns Facebook group. Keep an eye out for this beginning Thursday in order to be eligible for prizes, and if you haven’t joined the group yet, now is the perfect time! You can sew and enter more than one NYM dress/top, but you can only win once.
Now let’s get to work on our New York Minutes!
Selecting a Size and Printing Your Pattern
To achieve the right fit, you will need to choose a size based on your child’s chest measurement, not age, then make the length changes necessary following the pattern’s instructions on page 15. If your child’s chest size is in between sizes, it’s recommended that you size down. Also, the dress is designed to hit at the knee, and the finished length chart for each size can be located on page 2 of the pattern to help you. If you have chosen to make your NYM using cotton/spandex or double brushed poly, refer back to our sew along kick-off post, Choosing Fabrics about whether or not you want to size down.
For example, if your child’s chest is size 4, but her height puts her in a size 5, use the size 5 finished length measurement to figure out how to lengthen your size 4 dress pattern. Subtract 22.5″ (finished length of size 4) from 24″ (finished length of size 5) to get a difference of 1.5″, and that is how much you will lengthen your dress pattern using the guidelines on page 15.
Remember you can use layers to print your NYM pattern in only the size(s) that you need. Page 3 of the pattern covers printing and assembling, and includes a pattern layout for your convenience. Once you have your pattern printed and assembled, you’re ready to make your modifications.
Sew Along Pattern Hacks
Hmmm…so many choices! Our sew along also includes three hacks: pocket variations, scrunch neck, and a hi low hem. Each day we’ll cover a different hack, so your pattern modifications today will be very easy. Really there’s just one you’ll need to make before cutting out your fabric, and that’s the hi low hem. The remaining hacks are simply cut the day of the blog post, and an extra 1/3 – 1/2 yard of fabric should cover the fabric requirements.
Hi Low Pattern Modifications
If you have chosen to add the hi low hem to your sew along dress, you will need to make some modifications to your dress pattern. We’ve chosen a modest hi low hemline, but of course yours can be as dramatic as you like. This same pattern modification will work for both hem finishes that are included with the pattern, you simply need to make these changes to the cutting line you’ve chosen.
First grab your Dress Front pattern piece. We’re going to do some super simple and painless math! To calculate how high to raise/shorten your center front seam, measure the length of your center front pattern piece (in pink below). You will take your measurement and plug it into this equation:
Using my girl as an example, I decided to make the hemmed version for her hi low dress, so I measured my Dress Front all the way down to the “a-line hem cut” line. My center front measurement is 22″ long, so my equation will look like this: 22″x.089=1.958″, or rounding up to 2″ to make it easy. This is how much I will shorten the front (shown in pink below).
Draw a line from this raised point to the side seam’s seam allowance (it’s a 3/8″ seam allowance), drawing an ever so slight curve, since we’re going for a modest hi-low look. Now cut 1 on the fold using your new hem line.
Since we’re lengthening the back pattern piece, either do this modification before you cut your back pattern piece out, or place another piece of paper under the bottom of your pattern to make it longer. Now to lengthen the back, draw a line down the same length you used to shorten the front and draw a slightly curved line up to the side seam’s seam allowance point.
Cut 1 back piece on the fold using your new hi low dress pattern.
We will create our pattern pieces for finishing the hi low hem on Day 4 of our sew along.
Cut the Fabric
You can use page 5 of the pattern for the cut list and ribbing measurements if you’re using those options. Please note the following for the sew along hacks:
If you’re going to select one of the sew along pocket variations, simply cut your front dress piece without making any changes to it for pockets, just cut on the side seam line.
If you’re adding the scrunch neck, omit the hood, neck facing, and neck ribbing pieces.
If you’re hemming your NYM using the hi low option, you will do one of the following: cut the ribbing for your hi low hem if you’ve chosen the ribbing version, or wait for Day 4 to cut your hem facings for the hemmed version.
Tomorrow we’ll begin sewing, and although it’s not required, go ahead and share your fabric and pattern options in the Tie Dye Diva Patterns Facebook group for inspiration, or just because we love seeing what you all are planning to make 😉 See you back here tomorrow!
We are excited to announce our upcoming New York Minute Sew-Along starting November 6! If you haven’t participated in a sew-along before, check out our New York Minute Sew Along Information page for some basic info.
You’re gonna have some choices to make! View options for this girls’ dress pattern in sizes 12 months to 9/10 years include hood, ribbing, or faced neckline, long or short sleeves, inset or kangaroo pocket, and ribbing or A-line hem. There’s also a bonus tutorial right in the pattern for creating a New York Minute Top, so if you sew for boys or just want a top rather than a dress, you can sew along too.
You’ll also need to choose some great fabric, and that’s where this post comes in as a little pre-sew-along kickoff to help you choose.
Using Stretchier Knits. The New York Minute Dress pattern is designed and sized for 25%-35% stretch fabrics, which are more stable knits, but as a sew-along bonus, we’ll show you how to sew your NYM pattern with stretchier fabrics like cotton/lycra or double-brushed polyester. Really, there’s nothing to it! A stretchier fabric will just result in a looser fit if you make your regular size, or you can size down 1 size in width (but make your usual length) for a closer fit. Instructions for sizing down in width are right in the pattern, and we’ll go over it in the sew-along too. Remember when purchasing fabric that if you size down in width, you will still need the yardage required for your length size.
Here’s an example of the New York Minute made in a lightweight cotton/lycra jersey from Cali Fabrics. Our model has a chest size of 22″, which is right on the cusp of sizes 3 and 4. The dress on the left is made in a size 3, and the dress on the right is size 4. The size 3 dress is a bit more fitted, and the size 4 dress looks just a bit more relaxed. Both dresses look great though and hang with more drape than a heavier knit would provide.
These two NYMs by Sam and I designs are made from cotton/lycra and are both sized down in width.
These 3 below were sewn with jersey by our Sew-Along guest admin Stephanie in her girl’s regular size, without sizing down.
Double brushed poly (DBP) is another fabric that is stretchier than the pattern recommendations but still works nicely for the New York Minute dress. It’s a bit heavier than single-brushed poly and holds its shape nicely even while providing a nice drape. Stephanie sewed the dresses below with DBP from Vintage Lace. You can see the lovely drape at the hemline!
So, feel free to pick a DBP or cotton/lycra for your sew-along dress!
More About Fleece and Stable Knits. Let’s talk a little more about the pattern’s recommended fabrics and the concept of drape. Drape is how a fabric falls against or stands away from the body. Fabric will have the same properties in a dress that it does on the bolt, so if the yardage is bulky and doesn’t hang well, it will look the same sewn as a dress. When testing fabrics at the store, pull out the bolt and unwrap a yard or so, then use your hand to allow the fabric to hang from it. Fabrics that have a moderate drape work very well for this dress – you don’t want the fabric to stand stiffly away from your hand, but also not cling to the shape of your hand either. Below are a few examples of recommended fabrics showing their drape, from least to most. See how the first stands in a large cone, and the last falls much straighter.
Drape is one reason that thicker, stiffer fleeces (such as that called “Blizzard” fleece at JoAnn fabrics) are not recommended for your NYM dress. This yellow Blizzard fleece hangs very stiffly with little drape. Joann’s Fleece Buying Guide provides some more information about various fleeces.
Check out these pretty NYMs made with the pattern’s recommended knits: polar fleece, sweatshirt fleece, and Liverpool.
And one more from Stephanie in a quilted sweatshirt knit:
We have over a dozen more photos of different New York Minute Dresses made with fleece and other knits recommended by the pattern’s materials list (25%-35% stretch), in our December New York Minute Dress post, so be sure to check them out!
Before we go – PRIZES! We are so excited that three of our favorite places to purchase knit fabrics online have each donated a $50 gift certificate to our sew along! On the last day of the sew along, participants who have completed the sew-along can enter to win one of these generous prizes. Here’s a little about each of sponsor and the knits they carry.
Cali Fabrics. If you have been following TDD for a while, you probably know we are regular bloggers over at Cali Fabrics because we love shopping their huge selection of unique fabrics at great prices. Our sew-along will feature a NYM we made from a gorgeous DBP from Cali Fabrics. See all their many knits here: http://www.califabrics.com/knits/ Our affiliate link will save you $5 on your purchase of $25!
Imagine Gnats. Rachael has an impressive knack for choosing classy, on-trend, quality fabrics for her online shop. Great pics you can find for NYM include french terry, interlock, jersey, sweatshirt fleece, and more. Here’s a link to the lovely selection of knits – you can further sort the knits by type using the dropdown menu on the right. http://imaginegnats.com/product-category/fabric/substrate/knit-fabrics/
Raspberry Creek Fabrics. We’ll be showing you the coziest NYM ever made with french terry from their shop! This is a great place to shop a curated selection of floral, patterned, and solid knits. I see Fall colors are featured and they all look so yummy! You can peruse the knit fabrics here: https://www.etsy.com/shop/raspberrycreekfabric?section_id=7381085.
My girls are really into coordinating their costumes for Halloween, so it was only a matter of time before they asked to dress up like the sisters in the Disney cartoon series Elena of Avalor. We already have a tutorial for making the Elena inspired dress, so all we need is the Isabel inspired dress!
Princess Elena’s little sister Isabel typically wears a blue dress featuring a princess neckline, puff sleeves, a gathered skirt with a bottom ruffle, and a tie in the back. The main fabric of her dress is a blue floral design, with a light blue and gold bottom ruffle, and dark blue sleeve cuffs and waistband. She also has yellow and white trim highlighting a faux princess seam and neckline.
The La Tulipe and Daydreamer dress patterns provide just what we need to create the Princess Isabel inspired dress in girls’ sizes 2 through 10. We will only make pattern changes to the La Tulipe sleeve pattern piece, as all other changes are just to cutting measurements (those will be covered in the fabric cutting checklist below). This pattern mash up is not recommended for beginners, as you’ll need more advanced sewing skills to make the necessary pattern adjustments. Let’s jump in!
Making Our Sleeve Pattern Piece
When we’re done altering our La Tulipe sleeve pattern piece, it’s not going to look anything like it does now. It’ll look drastically different! Just follow each step one at a time, and before you know it, you’ll have completed a puff sleeve pattern mod.
First, you’ll want two copies of your sleeve’s pattern piece.
With one sleeve pattern piece facing up, take the other pattern piece and place it face down on top, matching the top notches and making sure the grainlines run parallel to each other (you can trace over them with a black marker beforehand to make them easier to see). Tape or glue in place.
Trace and remove the 1/2″ seam allowance along the top and sides (highlighted in gray below).
Taking your sleeve pattern, draw a horizontal line from the upper sleeve point to the other upper sleeve point, and a vertical line down from the center notch (shown in pink below). On a piece of blank paper, draw the same vertical and horizontal lines, and place your sleeve pattern on top of it, matching up lines.
Now measure how long you want your sleeve’s finished inseam to be on your child, subtract 3/4″ for the cuff, and draw lines straight down from your upper sleeve points this length, then connect with a horizontal line at the bottom, highlighted in pink below. I measured my girl’s finished inseam to be 2.5″, so after I subtract the cuff length, I draw my lines down 1.75″ and finish by connecting them at the bottom.
Trace around the top of your sleeve, which should close up the sleeve drawing, and cut it out.
We’re going to slash and spread the sleeve we just created. First cut your pattern in half on your vertical line. Then cut along the horizontal lines, leaving hinges at the sleeve points. Do this for both halves.
To make it easier to measure and draw my new sleeve, I’ve placed new pattern paper over my cutting mat so you can see the gridlines underneath. If you only have opaque paper, go ahead and draw a horizontal and vertical line to help you line up your pieces. Take this part slowly, doing each step in order.
Spread your sleeve 5″ apart and tape down top portion only. Draw a straight line connecting the top corners, then measure 3/4″ up from the center point (on the vertical line you originally drew on your new paper, or the line you see on your grid mat) and mark this spot. This will be our new sleeve cap height.
Draw vertical lines down from your separated sleeve cap, then a second pair of vertical lines 1″ out from that.
Now slide the bottom portion of your sleeve down, using the hinge, until the lower corner meets the 1″ line. You can see this is the circled points in the picture below. Secure these pieces.
Once you’ve done that, trace around your entire new sleeve pattern, with a line closing up the bottom, then add your 1/2″ seam allowance around the entire sleeve, shown by the dark black line below. You can still see my pencil tracing of my new sleeve inside the black line. Now add a grainline and notches to gather your sleeve cap 1.5″ to 2″ in from each upper sleeve point. Also add center notch point.
Voila! Look at the sleeve pattern you’ve created!
To make the cuff pattern piece, measure your child’s arm circumference where the sleeve should end, add 5/8″ to the width for ease, and 1/2″ to each side for seam allowance. Using my girl as an example, I measured her about 2″ down from her underarm which gave me a measurement of 6.5″. After adding the ease and seam allowance, I have a width of 8 1/8″, and I want my cuff to be 3/4″ long when finished, so I’m cutting my cuff piece 2 1/2″L x 8 1/8″W (or 2.5″x8.125″).
What to Cut!
Since we’re using both patterns, including some pieces we’ve created ourselves, read through the following list carefully before cutting into your fabric. Some of our pieces below will have different lengths or widths, so keep a close eye on those, and remember to measure twice and cut once!
La Tulipe, sleeve, and cuff patterns
Front and Back bodice main and lining
Cut 2 each modified sleeves and cuffs
Cut 1 waistband – Use the length 2.25″ from this pattern, but the width of the La Tulipe front bodice (simply measure the bottom of the bodice pattern piece and double it for your waistband width). For example, my size 2 waistband piece is 2.25″L x 12.5″W.
Cut 2 sash ties
Cut 2 skirts (subtract 1.5″ from length)
Cut 4 ruffle strips (add 1.5″ to length)
Ready to Sew!
First we’ll prepare our sleeves. Taking one of your sleeves, sew gathering stitches using your preferred method in between the notches at the top of the sleeve, and along the bottom beginning and ending 1/2″ from the sleeves raw edges.
Grab one of your cuffs and press in half. Also press one raw long edge under 3/8″.
With your sleeve right side up, place your cuff’s unpressed edge right side down on the sleeve’s bottom edge, matching side and center seams and raw edges. Gather your sleeve’s bottom edge to the width of the cuff and sew using a 1/2″ seam allowance.
Trim your seam down to 1/4″ and press towards cuff taking care not to press and flatten the gathers. Also go ahead and remove your gathering stitches.
Now unfold your cuff and fold your sleeve in half, right sides together, matching raw edges and cuff/sleeve seam. Sew this side seam using 1/2″ seam allowance and finish the seam.
Fold your cuff back up using your folds as guides and top stitch close to the inside edge. I find it helps to turn the sleeve inside out and sew from the inside of the cuff (so you would be sewing the cuff’s right side) since it’s such a small opening. Repeat for your other sleeve and cuff.
Now that your sleeves are done, go ahead and set them aside.
We will begin assembling our bodice following the pattern’s instructions for the La Tulipe dress, but we are going a little out of order so that we can add our yellow and white trim to the bodice. Beginning with step 1 on page 5 you will make the ties, but before moving on to step 2, sew your main front and back bodice pieces at the shoulders, using a 1/2″ seam allowance and press open. This is when you’re going to want to add your trim. The faux princes seams are fairly simple to add, and pins or wonder tape will help keep them in place to sew. If you are using ribbon, you will need to add mitered corners for the neckline points, or select a trim that is easy to angle. You can even hand embroider the “trim” or use a decorative stitch with yellow thread, it’s totally up to you! When you’ve finished the trim, move on to step 2. Here’s what it’ll look like before you add the ties.
Continue on through step 4 of the pattern, then you’re ready to grab those sleeves you prepared earlier. Keep your sleeves right side out and turn your bodice wrong side out.
Begin by inserting your sleeve into the bodice so right sides are together and matching underarm and shoulder seams. Pin up to your notches and gather your stitches until the sleeve fits inside the armhole, then sew in place using a 1/2″ seam allowance.
Also, take a look at the bottom of page 8 of your La Tulipe pattern for tips and details on how to easily sew and finish this sleeve seam. Repeat with your other sleeve.
Now take your two skirt pieces, and placing them right sides together, sew the side seams with a 1/2″ seam allowance, press, and finish these seams. Sew gathering stitches along the top of the skirt using your preferred method. We will essentially be attaching our skirt as seen in step 7 on page 10 of the La Tulipe pattern. The only difference is we’re gathering our skirt pieces instead of sewing a circle skirt. So you will match the side seams of the skirt to the side seams of the bodice, gather your skirt pieces evenly, and sew using a 1/2″ seam allowance and finish seam.
We’re almost done, we just need to add the bottom ruffle. Using the Daydreamer Dress pattern, follow step 6 beginning at the bottom of page 11, and once you’ve done that, you’re ready for your buttons/snaps. You can find the instructions for this on page 11, step 8 of the La Tulipe pattern.
You’re done! Now you’ll have one happy little girl that’ll refuse to take off her Isabel inspired dress!
To complete the Isabel look, we used only the bow pieces from the Knot or Not Headband pattern. Two small bows tied to the straps of black shoes, and one large bow to tie up her hair provides the finishing touches. These bows are so quick to make too, and they work great with the small scraps of blue fabric that were leftover from the dress. We even threw in the little brown book since Isabel loves to read!
A side view of those beautiful sleeves you modified and the ties in the back.
Before long she’ll be dreaming of Avalor…
You can find the tutorial for the corresponding Elena inspired dress here, and all of the patterns we used for this tutorial in the Tie Dye Diva pattern shop anytime. These dresses are sure to bring joy to your princesses as costumes or for pretend play any time of the year!
As soon as Patty mentioned this collection had colorful, smaller-scale prints I knew I wanted to show girl and doll dresses. I love how cutting a small piece of a fabric, whether for a quilt, a doll dress, or a smaller feature of a garment or bag, frames the print in a different way than when you view the whole cloth or a large piece and these were especially fun to work with in that way. The hummingbird, flowers, and geometric designs look so beautiful in both larger and smaller pieces! We chose Main in Teal, Henna Blossom in Teal and Geo Blossom in Pink and our Easy Peasy Peasant Dress pattern.
I used the 3/4 sleeve view with a simple hem and added a little ruching to the sleeve and a yo-yo flower for a sweet little accent. Miss Kennedy loved matching her doll, how cute are they?
I may have gotten a little carried away making a few extra things for Miss Kennedy’s American Girl doll with the scraps I had left over but these prints were calling to be mixed and matched into a dolly wardrobe!
Today I’m giving you this free doll dress pattern so you can sew a peasant dress for 18″ dolls like American Girl!
Free Doll Dress Pattern for 18″ Doll like American Girl
You will need:
Fat quarter or scraps of woven fabric such as quilting cottons
Print the free doll dress pattern with Adobe Reader and the following settings:
“Auto Portrait/Landscape” selected
“Actual Size” selected (be sure “Fit to Page” or “Shrink” NOT checked.)
Check the 1″ box and tape the pages together matching the triangles to form a square. Cut out the pieces.
Use 1/4” seam allowance throughout. Finish all seams with pinking shears or overlock or zigzag stitch to prevent fraying.
Step 1. You can insert elastic into the sleeve hems or not, but for either option, you will need to press and hem the edge. So turn the hem edge of each sleeve under ¼” and press, then turn again a generous 1/4” and press again. Sew very close to the fold. (By “generous” I mean, be sure it’s a full ¼”, or you may have trouble getting the elastic in the casing.)
If you’d like to add elastic to the sleeves as I have, use a tiny safety pin or threading tool to thread a 4.5” length of sleeve elastic into each sleeve hem. Stitch several times across both ends to secure the elastic, just less than ¼” from each edge. Repeat for both sleeves.
Step 2. Choose a piece to be your Dress Front (Front and Back is the same for dolly since her body is pretty much the same on both sides). Lay the Dress Front and a Sleeve piece right sides together and sew and finish the armhole curve.
Repeat to join the second sleeve to the Dress Front. Then lay the Dress Back right sides together with the remaining armhole curves and sew and finish them. Your dress should be in a complete “loop”.
Step 3. With the dress still wrong-side out, match side seams. Sew up each side and down the short underside of the sleeve and finish the seam.
Step 4. Turn the neckline edge under ¼” to the wrong side and press, then turn again a generous 1/4” and press again. Sew very close to the fold, leaving a 1” gap for inserting elastic. Also turn the hem under ¼” to the wrong side and press, then turn again ¼”” and press again. Sew all the way around close to the fold.
Insert an 8.5” length of elastic into the casing, join the ends, and stitch the gap closed.
It should not be difficult for the dress to go over dolly’s head the usual way, but if your child has trouble, try pulling it on dolly feet first, putting her hands through the armholes at waist level, then pulling up.
Today we’re blogging over at Cali & Co. with more of their truly awesome fabric! You may recognize this gorgeous and breezy lawn from our Fair and Square Tiers pattern hack post, but now we’ve paired it with the most beautiful turquoise knit Sterling Leggings. We thought it would be fun to embellish them a bit with a faux button placket, and we’re going to show you how too!
The Sterling Shorties and Leggings pattern is a staple pattern for any girls’ wardrobe, covering sizes 12-18 months all the way through 9/10. They include a plain, single, and double ruffle hem options for both the shorts and pants, and they can easily be added to skirt patterns for built in shorts using this tutorial. For our faux placket tutorial, we’re making the single ruffle pants version, but you can add the faux placket to the other legging hem options too.
To get started you will need to cut two plackets and two pieces of interfacing using the measurements below.
First, fuse the interfacing to the center of the wrong side of the placket strips following the interfacing manufacturer’s instructions.
Fold the placket in half with right sides together, matching the short ends’ raw edges.
Sew along the longer sides using a 1/2″ seam allowance.
Turn it right side out and press using a pressing cloth. Now taking one of your Sterling pant legs, place it right side up and locate the center point at the bottom. Place your placket here matching raw edges and center points. I used wonder tape to help keep my placket in place, but you can also pin it in place.
Stitch around your placket using a slightly longer stitch length. We don’t really need this placket to stretch, so using a straight stitch is ok. If you can reduce your presser foot’s pressure, go ahead and do that as well.
Now finish your pants according to the pattern’s instructions, and when you’re done, add the buttons (keep in mind that buttons are recommended for children 3 and over). I used simple 3/4″ buttons, and I really like how the black pops against this lovely and bright turquoise fabric. I placed my first button 3/4″ from the top of the placket, and the remaining buttons 1.5″ beneath each other, centered on the placket.
I also added the single ruffle because how cute is that? I love it, and the contrasting black thread helps highlight the placket and rolled hem don’t you think? This is such a fun and simple way to really add some pop to your leggings.